Book Review: Holmes and Watson

Dear Constant Reader,

You might recall that I thoroughly enjoyed the Giblet and Belle series by Robert Lay. His new series, Holmes and Watson, stars two of the characters we met in The Case of the Vendetta, Holmes, the superior orange cat and Tyler Watson, exonerated ex-con. It’s five years after the events of that book and the two of them, along with young genius Cassidy Macgregor (now grown), form a detective agency.

In the first book, The Case of the Dubious Daughter, a missing persons case becomes something more complex, sinister, and far-reaching. When Isabella De León’s parents hire the detectives to track down their daughter, the case leads them from Connecticut to St. Louis, where they discover wide ranging crimes involving a Colombian cartel, the FBI, and a shadowy organization that controls more than you might imagine. There is also romance and some of Holmes’ backstory.

I was privileged to be a beta reader on the second installment, The Case of the Bridge Too Far, which was recently published. When the agency looks into an art theft, they ultimately come face to face with their nemesis. Does he know that they are on to him? While the investigation goes on, Cassidy is preparing for her wedding and Holmes must deal with a cat from his past. There is excitement and tragedy, as well as humor and love.

The ending left me wanting to know what happens next. Fortunately The Case of the Enemy of My Enemy is due out next autumn. I have inside information that this book will conclude this series of thrillers, but there will be more books featuring the cast of cats!

As has become customary, each book has a bonus short story and a selection of recipes from the paw of Chef Hamilton A. Cat. The Dubious Daughter has recipes submitted by readers and tested to be selected by Hamilton (disclosure: one of them is mine) while The Bridge Too Far supplements the story with three recipes served during the course of the tale.

If you want a sample, I did a reading of the bonus story from The Case of the Bridge Too Far, “Lily and the Great Vampire Hunt”. It’s a Giblet & Belle story, starring Belle’s kitten.

You can follow these links to buy all of Robert’s books at Bookshop.org*:
Giblet & Belle –
The Case Of The Missing Ring
The Case Of The One Still Too Many
The Case Of The Vendetta

Holmes & Watson –
The Case Of The Diabolical Daughter
The Case Of The One Bridge Too Far

They make great holiday gifts!

M2

* Yes, you can get them on Amazon and B&N, but Bookshop.org supports small bookstores and I’m an affiliate, so you’re supporting my endeavors as well.

These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 18 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

Published in: on 1 December 2025 at 2:00 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Review: Girl Show

Dear Constant Reader,

In May (on Toni Elling’s birthday, in fact) I took “The History of Cooch Tent Sideshows”, an on-line class from the Chocolate City Burlesque Academy, taught by founder (and dear friend) Bebe Bardeaux. The class was excellent, as were the others I took, and it reminded me that I never reviewed this book in my collection.

Girl Show: Into the Canvas World of Bump and Grind by A. W.  Stencell, 1999.

As long as there have been carnivals, there have been girl shows. This history covers the early days, starting with the 1893 Columbia Exposition through the decline in the 1980s. The many photographs illustrate all aspects of the carnival: girls in action and backstage, advertisements, posters, show fronts, and more. In the back there’s a glossary for some of the carney terms used throughout book, like single-O (a show with only one attraction), blow off (a final act for an additional fee), and bally (a free taste of the show inside).

Some of the biggest names in burlesque worked carnival girl shows: Gypsy Rose Lee, Sally Rand, and Lili St. Cyr, to name a few. Many of the shows were big production revues with relatively elaborate sets and lavish costumes. But there was a lot of grit behind the glitz. There were plenty of cooch shows where the girls worked nude and allowed the patrons to grope them… and more*. And this went on for 10, 12, 14 shows a day.

The book spotlights some of the great names in the carnival biz, some of whom are well known to burlesque fans and some who are more obscure. There’s a fabulous section all about Tirza the Wine Bath Girl and the evolution of her act, with photos. And there’s a mention of that girl who set her tits on fire. Sound like anyone you know?

Besides the girls, the book covers other people who worked these shows. There were talkers, who were not, as you might suppose, hosts or MCs. They stood out front with some of the girls from the show to entice the audience in. A good talker was an entertainer in his** own right as well as persuasive. The best needed only a few girls around him to advertise the show — his patter did most of the work. There’s a brief mention of Leon Claxton’s Harlem in Havana show in this chapter. You can learn more about it in Leslie Cunningham’s book, Brown Skin Showgirls. There were the candy butchers technically sold boxes of candy, but also worked a con to get people to buy by promising fabulous or risqué prizes. They were found in burlesque theatres as well and could have very entertaining pitches. There are also sections on producers, show families, and general carnival life.

It’s a good overview of the traveling show — a fine companion to Carnival Strippers and Brown Skin Showgirls.

*There are photos of this. Just a friendly warning.
**There were female talkers but they were in the minority

M2These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 18 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

Published in: on 24 July 2025 at 4:46 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Review: Your Beauty Mark

Dear Constant Reader,

Here’s another book that’s been hanging around my shelves for far too long without a review.

Your Beauty Mark: The Ultimate Guide to Eccentric Glamour by Dita Von Tease with Rose Apodaca, 2015.

I’ll be perfectly honest; I did not have high hopes for this book. I thought Dita’s first book, Burlesque and the Art of the Teese/Fetish and the Art of the Teese, while very pretty, was a bit superficial and self-indulgant.

I was very pleasantly surprised that this book is packed with useful information. As to be expected, it’s full of glamourous pictures of Dita, but also some more practical demonstration ones. Besides just Dita, her co-author also offers beauty advice and there are sidebars from a number of other experts and eccentrics in the world of glamour.

There are a lot of topics in each section, but broken into bite-sized bits. As one would expect, the book covers makeup and hair styling, both of which are illustrated with photos of Dita demonstrating. I thought it very impressive that someone whose brand is based on artifice was willing to appear “undone”.

The first part is the most eclectic, covering skin care, fitness, nutrition, bathing, the bosom, hair removal, and perfume. Dita demonstrates her pilates-style workouts in photographs and shares her recipe for a green smoothie.

The second part is on cosmetics. She starts at the base with foundation and powder. The eye chapter has a lot about the cat eye, but also lashes, including false ones. Brows have their own chapter, as does blush, beauty marks (hers is a tattoo), lipstick, and manicures, including how to do Dita’s half-moon style, courtesy of “Mom Von Teese”. Throughout there are photos of Dita putting on her makeup. The last chapter of this section is a bit different, called “Striking Below the Waist”, it has very little to do with cosmetics. Instead, it discusses care for the waist, bum, legs and feet. There is the expected how-to for a pedicure, but also a discussion of stockings and a little about corsets. Lastly there are several pages on pubic hair and the styling thereof.

The third part is on hair. You’ll learn about cleaning and conditioning hair and hair tools and products. Of course there is a discussion of hair coloring; Dita is quite open that her blue-black locks come from a bottle. As with the makeup section, Dita demonstrates a number of her favored hairstyles, including her signature ‘do, in photographs

The fourth and last part is extreme forms of beauty — cosmetic surgery and stage makeup. Dita is quite honest about her breast augmentation. She is in favor of having work done, if it’s right for you and if you do a lot of research to find the doctor that’s right for you. And, she does point out that embracing your “flaws” make you unique. She outlines the lengths she goes to to create a flawless façade on stage, including covering herself neck to toe in body makeup that she blends herself. Having handled one of her costumes, I can confirm that the inside was daubed with pale foundation. She also gives tips for removing makeup, both the stray smudges and flecks that could mar your handiwork and how to get it all off afterwards.

As I said above, I was surprised and quite delighted about the amount of useful information in this rather weighty tome. Yes, Dita does take opportunities to shill her products, but one expects the reader to already be a Dita fan. Although she shows her signature styles and discusses her beauty regimines in detail, she does encourage the reader to find their own style of glamour — thus Your Beauty Mark.

M2These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 19 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

Published in: on 11 December 2024 at 1:36 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Review: The Family Vault

Dear Constant Reader,

It’s no secret that I love a good cozy mystery. And this is the perfect time of year for one. I want to thank the lovely Cat B. for recommending this charming one. What does this have to do with burlesque? Read on!

The Family Vault by Charlotte MacLeod, 1979

Sarah Kelling Kelling is a member of an old aristocratic Boston family,   married to her much older fifth cousin once removed, and desperately trying to keep up appearances in their Beacon Hill townhouse on a tiny budget.

When her great-uncle insisted that he be interred in the old family vault (instead of the newer family plot next to his wife), Sarah is present when the vault is opened prior to the funeral. Besides the expected ancient Kellings, they find the skeletal corpse of a woman still clad in a moldering corset and high heels, with chips of rubies embedded in her teeth.

She is quickly identified as Ruby Redd, an infamous burlesque dancer who performed at the notorious Old Howard in Scollay Square (pictured below). And she was murdered. Are there more skeletons (metaphorical and otherwise) in the Kelling family closet? What happened to the Kelling family fortune and jewels? And what about burlesque?

For the former questions, read the book. It’s fun, if a tad dated. As for the latter, there actually isn’t too much about burlesque. It’s not really a plot point, other than the profession of the murder victim and how she’s connected to the family, but there’s a little discussion throughout the story. 

I enjoyed it quite a bit, especially watching Sarah come into her own over the course of the story. And I’m looking forward to the rest of the books in the series, if I can find them.

Old Howard

M2These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 19 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

Published in: on 4 December 2024 at 10:16 am  Leave a Comment  
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Review: Banned in Boston

Dear Constant Reader,

This is one of those books I was sure I reviewed ages ago, but didn’t…

Banned in Boston: The Watch and Ward Society’s Crusade against Books, Burlesque, and the Societal Evil by Neil Miller, 2010.

“Banned in Boston”. Anyone who is a fan of classic burlesque knows that phrase. But who did the banning? Professor Miller presents the history of the New England Watch and Ward Society, founded in 1878 as the New England Society for the Suppression of Vice, the first branch of Anthony Comstock’s New York organization. The Society was a volunteer organization dedicated to keeping Boston, the Athens of America, as well as the rest of New England, clean and moral. Essentially vigilantes, the Society used quasi-legal methods to expose and punish immoral crimes, such as gambling, drug use, and prostitution. Sometimes they worked with local police and sometimes they set up their own raids and stings. But ultimately the Society was about censorship.

Any book, play, or motion picture that did not meet with the Watch and Ward’s approval could be banned. At the height of the Society’s power, there was a gentleman’s agreement between them and the booksellers. Banned books would quietly be taken off the shelves and the bookstore owners would then not be prosecuted for selling obscene material. Eventually the “Banned in Boston” label was used as a selling point in the rest of the country.

There’s one chapter in the book on burlesque and the Watch and Ward. The Society objected to profanity and suggestive language, costumes that showed off the female figure, and risqué dance movements. By the 1930s, they were keeping tabs on burlesque shows in Boston, Worcester, Springfield, and Providence. In 1932 one investigator complained that Bubbles Keller had “pliable hips, oscillating buttocks, and breasts that seemed forever quivering.” Doth he protest too much?

According to Ann Corio, the box office at the Old Howard would warn the performers that a Watch and Ward member was in the house by hitting a button that would turn on a red light in the footlights. The performers would then go ahead with the “Boston version”, a cleaned up act. It’s unclear if this really happened, since the Old Howard was shut down a few times for violations before being closed for good in 1953 when Irma the Body was secretly filmed by vice cops.

It’s worth reading to understand the atmosphere in Boston during the Golden Age of burlesque, but despite the prominent photo of Sally Keith on the book cover, the burlesque specific chapter is relatively short. Much of the book is concerned with censorship of books and legitimate theatre. I found it interesting that when Eugene O’Neill’s play Strange Interlude was banned in Boston (to great outcry), it was produced with great success in liberal Quincy*.

Despite the book being published almost 15 years ago, it’s still a timely cautionary tale of what can happen when private citizens decide what is “decent” and “moral” for others and take enforcement into their own hands.

M2These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 19 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

*For those unfamiliar with Boston politics, Quincy is pretty conservative these days and some years ago, blocked a certain burlesque troupe from opening a studio there.

Published in: on 14 November 2024 at 12:21 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Review: Punk Rock Aerobics

Dear Constant Reader,

Your Faithful Correspondent is laid up in bed with some sort of bug (I’m doing better, just very tired) and since I can’t seem to bring myself to do any of the active things had planned for the day, how about a book review.

Punk Rock Aerobics by Maura Jasper and Hilken Mancini, 2004.

Wait, you say, is this our refined Miss Mina writing of punk rock? You many not believe this, but as a dainty young thing I could be found in the mosh pit at an all-ages hardcore club. I still retain a great deal of affection for the music. And you know how I love creative workouts.

I encountered Punk Rock Aerobics last fall whilst I was working on the Boston Public Library Passport Challenge (a missive for another day). The Parker Hill branch of the BPL was celebrating “Punk Rock Week” and I decided it give the it a whirl. I had a lot of sweaty fun and picked up the book.

The creators hated traditional fitness classes and gyms, but wanted to get in shape. After becoming certified aerobics instructors, like true punks, they tossed everything out and developed their own gritty workouts with moves like “skank” and “Iggy’s pop”. However, many of the exercises are ones you would recognize, just with punkier names, like the “unnatural axe” is a hamstring stretch.

The book takes you through the equipment needed, including good sneakers, a mat, water, weights (they use bricks) and then progresses through the vocabulary: stretches (both warm-up and cool-down), cardio, strength training (standing and on the floor). All of these are illustrated with black and white photos. The cardio moves are classified as hi-fi or lo-fi (high or low impact) or both. Difficulty is rated with skulls. “Hand-written” notes give helpful tips.

After an extensive tour of the moves, they show you how to create workouts. Pick three cardio moves (a mix of hi & lo-fi) and a song, which they call combo-hatching. You’ll be doing the three moves over and over to the song. Fortunately, punk songs are pretty short, so there will be a lot of variety in each cardio section. Then string your combos together into rock blocks. Choose your stretches and strength moves and put them all together into a workout of your desired length. Don’t panic, there are plenty of examples of combos and sample workouts.

The last chapter is tips on how to sustain your fitness practice. Throughout the book there are Q & A’s with musicians about their fitness routines and the authors recommend movies and albums for inspiration. The tone of the book overall is, as you might imagine, irreverent, but encouraging.

It’s hard to learn physical skills from a book, so I wouldn’t recommend this to a fitness novice. But if you’ve got some exercise experience, this is a fun way to shake things up.

A live PRA class ends with the instructors lobbing mini-candy bars at you, so give yourself a sweet treat when you’re done sweating.

M2These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 20 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

Published in: on 29 April 2024 at 11:04 am  Leave a Comment  
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Book Review: Giblet and Belle

Dear Constant Reader,

After the previous rather mediocre review, I wanted to share some books I can actually endorse. They’re not about burlesque, but some of my other favorite things: mysteries and cats.

There are three books by Robert Lay, so far:
Giblet and Belle: The Case of the Missing Ring, 2021
Giblet and Belle: The Case of the One Still Too Many, 2022
Giblet and Belle: The Case of the Vendetta, 2023

In this world it’s the cats who are solving the mysteries. I know that sounds twee, but it’s not. The cats are the main characters, foiling criminals and gently (and not so gently) nudging humans in the right direction. Unbeknownst to People, for thousands of years there have been cats who are Protectors, looking out for humans and keeping order.

When our story first begins, tiny kitten Belle has only recently been adopted from a shelter by The People and is getting used to the new home in Torrington, Connecticut that she shares with dignified tabby Giblet (her best friend), old Joel Grey the Russian Blue, and the formidable Maine Coon Mittens. After a burglary, Belle learns that Mittens is a Protector, from a long line of heroic French cats. Mittens sees something promising in Belle and begins training her as a Protector.

In the second book, Belle is officially an apprentice Protector. The People and all their pets go to West Virginia for the summer so the Man-Person, a history professor, can do research for his book on moonshine production. Here we learn Joel Grey’s backstory and how he ended up with The People. The cats (along with canine and human allies) find themselves trying to bring a murderer to justice and save a family legacy. We also learn quite a bit about distilling whiskey, a major plot point. I do like novels with some educational content!

The third book, with Belle as a full-fledged Protector with her own protégé, delves deeper into the complexities and history of the cat world. We also meet several new cats: the kittens Holly Bear and Hamilton, and Holmes, a consulting cat detective, of course. The stakes are even higher in this story with a series of murders and a diabolical criminal mastermind bent on chaos and destruction.

The stories have excitement, peril, and even tragedy, but also sweetness and humor. I found them well-paced and hard to put down. The illustrations by Natalia Junqueira are charming.  If you like cozy mysteries, these books fit the bill. They’re an excellent read while traveling.

Like me, the author is big fan of Breaking Cat News and a frequent contributor to the comments section. There are a few in-jokes and Easter eggs in the books for those who are familiar with the comic strip. (And if you’re not familiar, do give it a read.)

I will admit that The Case of the Missing Ring made me cry several times. Bartholomew had only recently joined our household and it was a bit much reading about a huge wise cat teaching a young black cat how to protect the forever-family.

Chef HamiltonOne of the lovely bonuses in the latter two books are recipes from Hamilton A. Cat, a chef cat. I’ve tried them both and they are delicious. Full disclosure, I was one of the advisors on the second recipe.

You can buy the books at Amazon, B&N, &c. or directly from Giblet & Belle Press. If you visit Giblet & Belle, you can meet the real-life cats that inspired the characters and read half a dozen short “case files”.

I am eagerly awaiting the next book, which goes in a different direction and stars some of the characters introduced in The Case of the Vendetta.

M2These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 19 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

Published in: on 14 December 2023 at 2:50 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Book Review: Burlesque Dancer 101

Dear Constant Reader,

This book has been hanging about on my “to be reviewed shelf” for a while.

Burlesque Dancer 101: A Professional Burlesque Dancer’s Quick Guide on How to Learn, Grow, Perform, and Succeed at the Art of Burlesque Dancing From A to Z by HowExpert with Emilie Declaron, n.d. 

Well, that seems like a lot to promise in one slim paperback (about 100 pages). From looking at other HowExpert offerings the titles are similar, offering guides on how to “Learn, Grow, and Succeed” at something “From A to Z”, so I won’t blame the author for that. 

In the introduction it states that the book will give you “all the tools necessary to launch and develop your burlesque career” whether you’ve just started out in the art or even never been to a burlesque show. That’s a tall order.

The book’s six chapters contain an introduction to the world of burlesque (a little history, some notable performers, some burlesque styles, a few “traditional” routines, &c.), routine creation, costuming, hair and makeup, performing, and developing your career. 

Not surprisingly, the book is very superficial. The information and advice isn’t bad per se*, but trying to cover every topic one would need to become a professional burlesque performer means this book is just skimming the surface. It’s more bullet points than in-depth tutorials. That’s not awful if you want to use this as a jumping-off point, but it shouldn’t be the only source.

There are no illustrations in the book, which it really could have used. Trying to figure out poses or make pasties or style victory rolls without drawings or photographs, especially for completely novices, is very difficult, if not impossible. I understand that image rights are a whole issue and increase the cost of a book, but line drawings would have made some sections a lot clearer.

The author is from the UK, so some of the vocabulary and spelling isn’t US standard. I’m fine with that, but I’m not okay with errors. Gypsy Rose Lee’s name is spelled correctly in place and spelled “Gipsy” (the UK spelling) in others. Now that might just be an autocorrect error, but there are also typos, misplaced words, and punctuation issues that indicate a lack of editing. That’s probably not the author’s fault so much as that of the publisher (which also claims authorship).

The part that really aggravated me was in last section on next steps after you’ve become a performer, which suggests producing shows, selling burlesque costumes, running “hen dos” (girls’ nights out), doing corporate gigs, and “start teaching other future burlesque dancers and create your own school”. While these are aspirations, they’re not things I would recommend to brand-new performers with only a little experience. Personally, I get very frustrated with the suggestion that anyone who performs burlesque is qualified to teach. But that is a rant for another time.

Although the table of contents lists recommended resources, it’s just a list of other HowExpert books. There’s a small section of burlesque related websites at the end, mostly for places to buy costumes. The industrious reader could pick out names of performers mentioned throughout the book and look them up, since there are many mentions of performers for examples of acts or personal style.

It’s not a terrible guide, but by trying to be too much, it becomes very little.  The Burlesque Handbook is still my recommendation.

M2These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 19 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

*But recommending hot glue for Swarovski crystals is terrible advice. Don’t do it.

Published in: on 12 December 2023 at 3:34 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Book Review: The NecroMunchicon

Dear Constant Reader,

You may recall my review of The NecroNomNomNom and my subsequent obsession with its rituals. If you follow me over on YouTube, you might have seen the concoctions I mixed up from LoveCraft Cocktails the past two Halloweens (here and here).

The good folks at Red Duke Games are at it again! Just the other day I received a copy of The NecroMunchicon: Unspeakable Snacks and Terrifying Treats from the Lore of H. P. Lovecraft by Mike Slater (2023).

As with the previous two volumes all the dishes have terrible pun names drawn from the works of Lovecraft and similar weird fiction authors.

The recipes are divided into Sweet Madness, The Witching Sour, Our Lure and Savor-y, Salt and Batter-y, and The Bitter Blend, with such offerings as Innsmouthfuls, Dunwich Whipoorwings, and Maca-Runes. Each one is accompanied by a full-page illustration by Kurt Komoda and a short bit of writing, some of which were contributed by Miguel Fliguer, author of Cooking with Lovecraft.

Besides the pun names, the recipes have a subtitle, like “Morguearita Slabs: zest in piece with no-bake cheesecake bites”, that often explains what you’re actually making. The ingredient lists and directions are lightly eldrichified. There’s no need for an appendix with the recipes in plan language like the first book. (Although the Grimoire edition, which I have, lets you sink or swim on your own)

Since I only just received it, I haven’t yet cooked anything from it. Oh, wait… yes I have!

Here we have Gaunt with the Cinn-ed, cinnamon-sugar crisps and Mexican hot chocolate dip and its accompanying illustration.

Untitled Untitled

And The Flats of Ulthar, chili-lime tortilla chips and pepita salsa.

Untitled Untitled

Perhaps you are saying “Mina, how did you find dishes that look just like the ones in the illustrations?” or perhaps you have figured out already…

They’re my recipes!

Last summer Mike Slater got in touch with me and asked if I wanted to contribute a snack recipe to the new book. The catch was I had to do it fast, as this was practically the last minute. I did a little brainstorming, settled on the hot chocolate dip and cinnamon-sugar crisps. Even though the editorial team would give it an appropriate name, I kind of wanted to come up with one myself. Scratch, because he’s so much better at this, suggested I make two complimentary dishes and call the whole thing “The Treat of Four Ways” (after “The Street of Four Winds” in The King in Yellow). Then I hit on the pepita salsa and chili-lime chips. Chips and dips with Mexican flavors, sweet and savory.

A mere two days later I had the recipes finalized, tested, photographed, and sent off. As it turns out, because of the way the book is structured, they became two separate entries. I had just used bat and cat shapes because those were the cookie cutters I had, but I like how they inspired one of the names.

So, I’ve been sitting on this news for over a year! And even after the book came out, I didn’t want to say anything until I could see it with my own eyes, lest it be but a fever dream.

I want to start cooking from it, but I only have 9 recipes to go before I’ve made everything in The NecroNomNomNom… Well, no one ever said you couldn’t work from two spellbooks at once, right?

M2These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 21 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

Published in: on 12 October 2023 at 6:36 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Review: The Costumes of Burlesque

Dear Constant Reader,

I can’t believe it’s taken me so long to review this glorious book. Scratch brought me back a freshly-released copy from the Burlesque Hall of Fame Weekend in 2019, so it’s recently celebrated its third birthday.

The Costumes of Burlesque 1866-2018 by Coleen Scott, 2019.

Coleen Scott (aka Rosey La Rouge) is a costume designer with a passion for burlesque. Her first book, The Pastie Project*, focused on that specialty adornment unique to burlesque. This tome shows everything.

It’s a chronological look at burlesque costumes from the 19th century until the present day, with each chapter spanning a couple of decades. Every chapter is illustrated with images of burlesque performers in costume and color photographs of extant costumes. The absolute best part is that Scott shows you all the layers when possible. It’s one of the challenges of displaying burlesque costumes (as I well know from mounting exhibits at the American Burlesque Collection), seeing only one part in isolation does not give you a full appreciation for the design of these costumes.

There are not a lot of extant early burlesque costumes, so she fills out the first chapter with images of performers and existing costumes for similar performances — ballet, cancan, circus, bellydance, Loie Fuller. As the chapters progress, more and more extant costumes are included (many from the collection of Nez Kendal) and we get to see details, sometimes even the insides. Still, photos of performers, posters, and other ephemera probably outweigh costumes. She touches briefly on a variety of costume styles, like half-and half acts and drag.

The very last chapter — Modern Burlesque Costume Design — features layer by layer photos. Dirty Martini, Cheeky Lane, Gin Minsky, and Darlinda Just Darlinda wear their costumes and strip for the camera, showing every piece as they go from full ensemble to pasties. They’re each on a plain white background which highlights the costumes in a way that’s impossible on stage. There are also close looks at individual components. It’s probably the best view of each costume possible, short of having the  owner show it off in person.

[Please note that while most of Gin Minsky’s quick-change costume was made by Garo Sparo, her Screen Siren G-string was created by Manuge et Toi Designs and the blue gown was rhinestoned by Canova Studio, who were not credited. I’ll assume that was an oversight.]

It’s a lovely book to just flip through and look at the gorgeous photographs, but the text is enlightening too. There are interviews with Legends, current performers, and costume designers. There are notes at the end of each chapter and a bibliography in the back. Throughout the book words in red can be found in a helpful glossary of terms for those unfamiliar with burlesque and its specialized language.

It’s impossible for one book to be completely comprehensive on any topic, and there are, of course, omissions, but Scott covers a lot of ground and has created a beautiful work. It’s not inexpensive, even in softcover, but worth it.

M2

*Which I don’t own…

These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 14 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

Published in: on 20 July 2022 at 2:43 pm  Leave a Comment  
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