Busy: Sewing Edition

Dear Constant Reader,


We’re down to the final weeks! It’s your last chance to vote for The Boston Babydolls for “Best Theatre Group” and B.A.B.E. for “Best Dance Classes“!


The Sewing Room* at Stately Babydoll Manor has been pretty busy of late! We’re bringing a practically new act to The Ohio Burlesque Festival and It’s needed a lot of work. I say practically because we have performed it before, but all that remains is the music and the concept. Now it has twice as many dancers, completely new choreography, and new costumes.

And it’s those costumes that have been filling my hours. Fortunately, the new dresses:
Vixin's Ahoy dress 2  -2013
were made by Marion at Vixens Ahoy. And I’m terribly grateful, especially since I know how little she likes to work in satin.

My job was to add the snap closures. Then move and resew the snaps. Add reenforcement and resew the snaps. Move the snaps again. For some reason, despite carefully fitting, we’ve been unable to get the placement just right. I think we’ve got it now.

And I was volunteered to make the belts. I’ll just say that for such a simple thing, there was more cursing than one expected. Let’s leave it at that. They just need snaps (let’s see if I can get this one right) and faux buckles.

And I’m making 2 of the bras. Betty’s got the other 2. There’s probably going to be a lot of hand-work on the drive to Johnstown this weekend.

Related to the show this weekend, in Pittsburgh, we sold almost all of our stock of pasties, so more of those is on the list as well. Yes, I hand-make all the pasties we sell.

M2
* Actually I do most of my hand sewing on the day bed in the media room. It’s air conditioned in there, I can watch old episodes of The X-Files, and there’s a large white cat.

Published in: on 17 July 2013 at 10:08 am  Leave a Comment  
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Dress Progress

Dear Constant Reader,


Vote for The Boston Babydolls for “Best Theatre Group” and B.A.B.E. for “Best Dance Classes“!


dressI took advantage of the holiday last week to work on the Fit & Flair dress. Great progress was made in a very short time!

I finally had the time and patience to put in the zipper. I used a lapped technique I found on some sewing website and it seems to have worked. And I hardly cursed at all. Once that hurdle was jumped, putting the two halves together was a snap. I sewed the front to the back along the top of the sleeves/bodice first, then the underside of the sleeves/side seam of bodice and skirt.

As you can see here, modeled by My Little Friend, one might almost think it was wearable.

facingNext step was to make the neck facing. I decided to interface it, which made me procrastinate a bit. The interfacing is cut without seam allowances and there are 3 different sizes of seam allowance on these pattern pieces. Kind of fussy. Then it had to be fused with a steam iron. It was pushing 100 degrees and humid in Boston, so I was less than thrilled about firing up the iron.

I was baffled by the directions for the facing before I realized that they were out of order. Steps 2 and 4 had been swapped, telling you to sew the facing to the dress, before you joined the back facing to the front facing. Yikes! Fortunately, the diagrams were in the correct place. I suppose I should drop a note to Folkwear in case they ever re-release the pattern.

Next step (in the right order) is turn and sew the outside raw edge, then sew the facing to the neckline. After that, it’s just finishing work! I love hemming!*

M2
* That’s a lie.

Published in: on 10 July 2013 at 10:30 am  Leave a Comment  
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Review: Embellishments

Dear Constant Reader,

Vote for The Boston Babydolls for “Best Theatre Group” and B.A.B.E. for “Best Dance Classes“!

Buy your tickets to The Teaseday Club on July 9th in my name! I’ll do something nice for all my supporters!


Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Detail by Astrida Schaeffer (2013)

Inspired by an exhibit at the University of New Hampshire Museum, which she curated, Ms. Schaeffer presents a number of the elaborate Victorian gowns from the museum’s collection. The book focuses on 10 gowns, beautifully photographed, dating from the 1870’s to 1909. There are many close-up photos showing details of those gowns and others to illustrate the embellishment techniques used.

So where’s the burlesque in all this? Ms. Shaeffer doesn’t only show the embellishments used, she explains how to do them! With clear instructions and diagrams she shows the reader ruching, pleats, ribbon work, binding, piping, cord & braid work, and appliqué. The possibilities for your own costumes are endless! There is more to embellishment than just rhinestones (shocking, I know…).

I got my copy through Astrida’s Kickstarter campaign, but you can buy yours direct from the author at ShaefferArts. And if you ever need a custom mannequin, she’s your gal!

M2

Published in: on 3 July 2013 at 10:26 am  Leave a Comment  
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More Progress

Dear Constant Reader,

I have not forgotten my new dress. I’ve just been terribly busy. Over the weekend I managed to get a little bit of blissful sewing in.

Each half of the skirt back is now stitched to one of the back bodice halves. The two halves of the back are sewn and basted together, in preparation of putting in the zipper.

The zipper might be a little challenging. The directions just say to follow the zipper manufacturers instructions for a lapped zipper insertion. My zipper didn’t come with any such instructions, nor are there any on its website. I expanded my search.

It turns out there are 2 ways to set in a lapped zipper. I rejected the one that would have involved a modification my pattern didn’t have. I’m working a little on faith here, because I can’t quite visualize the end result.

Ultimately, I pinned the zipper in place and chickened out. Maybe I’ll have to courage this week. After all, what’s the worst that happens? I have to rip it out. Frustrating, but not life-threatening.

Tune in and see what happens!

M2

Published in: on 17 June 2013 at 10:28 am  Leave a Comment  
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More Sewing

Dear Constant Reader,

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More stitching yesterday. I sewed the other 3 darts and then seamed the front bodice together. What do you think?
Bodice
That white line has nothing to do with it, by the way. That’s just some chalk left over from when I was figuring out placement.

Next step was putting in the pockets. Pockets! Oh joy! That wasn’t me being sarcastic. I love pockets. And they’re easy when they’re on a seam. Once that was done, I had the whole front of the skirt sewn together. Then I sewed the skirt front to the bodice front.

This should give you a rough idea of what the finished product will look like.
front
I also sewed the skirt back pieces together. I would have done more, but at this point it was time to pick up Scratch and Betty from the airport. Next up, the back skirt panels need to be pressed and then sewn to the two pieces of the back bodice. The rest of my week is pretty busy what with rehearsal tonight, chair dance class and the DrinkOne benefit tomorrow, and weddings over the weekend. I’m not sure when I’ll pick this up again.
M2

Published in: on 5 June 2013 at 11:09 am  Leave a Comment  
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First Steps

Dear Constant Reader,

Please vote for The Boston Babydolls as “Best Theatre Group” on The Boston A-List. You only have to vote once!


I have begun the Fit & Flair dress with my least favorite part: cutting. It wasn’t too terrible. The cotton fabric is quite crisp, even after washing, so it stayed put. Fabric that slithers makes me crazy.

I had to be a little clever in my lay-out. The material is supposed to be folded across the width, as opposed to the usual way along the length, because the majority of the pieces are too wide for a half width. However, the floral pattern is directional, so I couldn’t just fold the fabric. If I did, half the skirt would have upside down flowers. This also meant I couldn’t place the pieces as shown on the pattern layout or I would also have upside down flowers.

So, I marked all the pieces that were getting cut this way (all the skirt panels except the front, the pockets, and facings) and then cut that swath of fabric off. Then I laid it on top of the remaining fabric. Then I started to cut and began to curse. I had made a total rookie mistake. Both pieces of fabric were right side up. That meant instead of mirror images, I was going to have 2 left sides. Fortunately, I caught it very early. And I had bought a little extra fabric. Of course the bit I cut was a curve, so I lost quite a bit of fabric.

Having flipped the fabric, so both sections were wrong side in, I finished cutting that part and was starting to worry about those slashes interfering. I cut the center skirt panel (on the fold) and just had the bodice pieces to worry about.

The bodice and dolman sleeves are cut in one, which means there has to be a center front seam. I find them very distracting, especially when they break a pattern, so I was resolved to match the pattern. This was an exacting process but kind of fun. It’s the kind of problem solving I enjoy. With all luck, the center front seam will hardly be noticeable. *fingers crossed*. The back was no big deal to cut and I’m left with a goodly amount of fabric (if I work around two slashes). Maybe it will become a charming purse.

And this was the result!
pieces
So exciting, I know. I keep the fabric pieces paired with the pattern pieces until I start to sew on them. It lessens confusion.

The next step is to get sewing! And we started with possibly my second least favorite things — darts. Both the front and the back of the bodice are darted for a good fit. I don’t mind sewing darts; it’s marking them that gives me grief.

Eventually I prevailed and did this:
dart
Then my bobbin ran out of thread and I took that as a sign that I should hang it up for the night.

M2

Published in: on 4 June 2013 at 3:14 pm  Leave a Comment  
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My Sewing Machine

Dear Constant Reader,

Yesterday you saw my sewing room and there in my sewing machine. My friend Lucianus got very excited about my vintage machine, having one much like it, so I thought I’d share a little more about it.

It’s a late ’50’s Singer Slant-O-Matic 403 and I adore it. Some parts have worn out and been replaced over the years, like the belt, light, spool holders, but for the most part it’s all original. When my mother had it, it was mounted in a table. I was still in college when she gave it to me, so she had it converted to a “portable” (it’s quite heavy). Now, of course, that I’m settled at Stately Babydoll Manor I wish the table still existed…

I’ve still got the original instruction manual (©1958)
Sewing Machine Manual
and the box of attachments
Sewing Machine Box
This little delight contains all sorts of goodies, like the feet: general purpose foot, straight stitch foot, seam guide, zipper foot, hemming foot, button sewing foot, multi-slotted binder, and ruffler.

It also contains the “fashion disks“. These are cams you drop in the top of the machine to make fancy stitches. Without any, you can only straight stitch. I always have #0 in place, for basic zigzag. I’ll be honest –I’ve never used any other the others. It was only last night that I realized that I had all the original disks, less #9. One wayward part after 55 years — not too bad.

As I mentioned, the one thing I don’t love about this machine is making buttonholes. It’s a complicated process involving repeatedly changing the needle position and the stitch length. I’ve never been able to successfully make nice buttonholes. It’s easier to make them by hand.

Lucianus opened my eyes to the fact that there a buttonholer for my machine! And someone was selling a complete set on eBay. Needless to say I jumped at the opportunity. I’ll let you know how it works out.

M2

Published in: on 30 May 2013 at 11:28 am  Leave a Comment  
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My Sewing Room

Dear Constant Reader,

This is where is all happens. Well, all the costuming anyway. My sewing room at Stately Babydoll Manor.

Sewing Room 1
Here we are facing the door. You can see my dress form with its snazzy cover, made from fabric printed with whimsical dress forms. Behind it is a rather nice mirror Scratch found for a makeup class at the Expo and I inherited. The filing cabinet holds my patterns. You can just see the ironing board behind the door and my mail basket on the door (I only mention that because I made the basket). Above the door are ribbons from costume competitions.

Sewing Room 2
To the right of the door is my fabric and trim stash. It’s a little out of control. The bins are actually well-organized; I just need to get rid of/use up a bunch. The plastic containers way up top hold feathers, boas, and small fans.

Just off to the right is a wooden bench (you can see a bit of yellow) I made in Scratch’s wood shop, under his direction. It currently serves more as a repository of stuff than a windowseat, which was my plan. Sadly, you can’t see the large basket on feet which I also made. During a project it holds important stuff so they don’t get lost in the chaos.

Sewing Room 3
To the left of the door is the office part — roll-top desk, computer, filing cabinets. This is where the business part of B.A.B.E. happens. One of the filing cabinets is currently heaped with cocktail and tea aprons looking for a place to live. One of those decorative shelves is filled with mermaids. The other two have my snow globe collection.

I’m very particular about my snow globes. They should be the cheap tourist kind, contain an iconic landmark or city scape, contain snow (as opposed to glitter), and be from somewhere where it doesn’t usually snow. Thanks to globe trotting friends, I have snow on the Alamo (that’s was my first!), snow on the Great Pyramid, snow on the Las Vegas Strip, snow on the Alhambra, snow on the corner of Hollywood and Vine, snow on Masada (my favorite), snow inside Penn’s Cave, and several more.

Sewing Room 4
Opposite the door is my actual work station. My sewing machine itself is under that sewing machine cozy, printed with whimsical sewing machines. One of the bookcases has all my sewing & fashion books (as well as Elizabethan and maritime history books. I’m eclectic in my interests). The other one is mostly magazines, mostly sewing or needlework related. The one dead ahead has a lot of crafting supplies. It’s not attractive, so I draped it with a pretty bedsheet. On top of all the bookcases are hats and hat boxes.

I’m sorry it was sunny out, partially because it messed with my camera, leaving this picture dark, but really because you can’t see my clever curtains with sewing related prints: dress forms one one, scissors on the other, and sewing machines on the window above the bench. I keep my hula hoops on the curtain rod above. Why not?

Sewing Machine
And this is my wonderful 1950s Singer Slant-O-Matic that my mother handed down to me. Family lore says that my great-grandmother’s treadle machine was sold to buy this one. I love everything about it except how it makes buttonholes. I’ve considered getting a modern machine just for that.

And that’s the grand tour. You’ll be seeing bits of it as I work on the Fit & Flair dress and now you’ll know where those bits are.

M2

Published in: on 29 May 2013 at 11:01 am  Leave a Comment  
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Getting Ready

Dear Constant Reader,

I have begun the Fit & Flair dress!

First step, I bought some fabric:
Fabric and pattern
(and also a zipper, but that’s hardly exciting, so not in the photo). It’s a crisp cotton print. I think the floral design is kind of 50’s.

Then I washed the fabric as hot as possible and dried it the same. I always abuse my washable fabrics and then baby the resulting garments. I pulled the fabric out of the dryer while it was still slightly damp. This makes ironing easier, which was done while watching some old X-Files episodes.

Next step is cutting, which I always hate. And it’s going to be a little challenging. The bodice of the dress is cut in one with the dolman sleeves, therefore it’s too wide to cut on the fold of normal width fabric, so there’s a seam down the center front. I’ll need to match the pattern as much as possible to keep from calling attention to that seam. Although I don’t think I’m going to worry about it on the skirt — there are 7 panels and that’s just too much work. Maybe the front & side front panels, but unlikely.

This is all complicated by the discovery that the fabric has a couple of slashes in it. Not enough that I’m taking it back to the fabric store and complaining. But that’s mostly because I’m lazy and it’s quite a drive. I’m going to have to lay out around them, which will be fun with such full skirt panels. Fortunately, I got extra fabric.

Tomorrow I think I’ll give you a peek at my sewing room.

M2

Published in: on 28 May 2013 at 11:42 am  Leave a Comment  
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Very Busy

Dear Constant Reader,

The Boston Babydolls are very busy preparing for our summer show
Fine Art of Burlesque

So far we’re scheduled to appear at The Coolidge Corner Theatre, a couple of locations in Maine, and Pittsburgh, PA. More dates coming soon!

And we’re also working on an act you can only see Friday night at the Ohio Burlesque Festival, where we just happen to be headliners. (No big deal…)

And I’m cleaning up my sewing room in preparation for the Fit & Flair project, plus some other sewing I’m sure will be needed for the upcoming shows.

However, we did take time out of our busy schedule to see From Denmark With Love. You might recall that at The Bod of Avon there was a song about Ophelia (to the tune of “Goldfinger”). This is the show for which that was a teaser. If you’re looking for an evening of cheap, dirty, fun theatre, I urge you to go.

Busily yours,
M2

Published in: on 20 May 2013 at 11:44 am  Leave a Comment