Costuming The Wrathskellar

Dear Constant Reader,

Work on The Wrathskellar is in full swing. Yes, we’re actually calling it The W. R. Athskellar Cavalcade of Curiosities this year, but The Wrathskellar is so much faster to write.

The main thing we Babydolls are concentrating on right now are our choreographies and that means we need to know what our costumes are. Part of rehearsal last night was spent rummaging through our costume collection to choose pieces and figure out what needs to be created. One of the challenges for this show is that it’s entirely in greyscale. All costumes have to be black, white, shades of grey, or silver.

We’ve got a few pictures up in this Facebook album: W. R. Ehearsal, Aug 25. We’re planning to be better about documenting some of our rehearsal/backstage process.

I’m making both of my costumes. This weekend was spent buying most of the fabric and starting construction. This is going to be the top for my hooping act.

The main fabric is black with silver embroidery, cutwork, and rhinestones. Note the cool selvedge treatment. The white satin is for the lining and will show through the cut-outs. I discovered *after* I sewed the whole thing that only one of the selvedges had rhinestones on it. Oh no, I have to add more rhinestones!

Today I make the skirt and maybe tomorrow you’ll even get a peek at the whole thing together.

M2

Published in: on 26 August 2013 at 11:50 am  Leave a Comment  
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Last Ohio Burlesque Festival Note

Dear Constant Reader,

I realized I talked a lot about our new costumes for the act we brought to The Ohio Burlesque Festival and only teased you about showing pictures someday. That day is now.

Thanks to Eric Paul Owens for taking these shots.
Ohio Burlesque Festival 2013 - EPO
The opening. The camera has caught me just as I’ve turned (see how my skirt is still swirling) and am in the process of getting into the same pose as the other 3. The round things we’re holding which are covered in a curly fake fur are the “poodle paddles”. Similarly, we’re wearing “poodle hats”.

Ohio Burlesque Festival 2013 5 - EPO
And here you can see the black & white/white & black bras on Stella and Devora. In another few seconds, you would have seen that Betty and I had the same configuration.

We’re planning to do the act again at “Boston Loves Dixie!” on the 31st, so you can see us in all our black & white, poodle glory!

M2

Published in: on 13 August 2013 at 11:54 am  Leave a Comment  
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Getting Ready

Dear Constant Reader,

On Thursday we hop in the trusty Babydollmobile and head West to the Ohio Burlesque Festival. We’re presenting a practically new number. It has the same concept and music as one we did in V for Vixen, but the costumes, choreography, and number of dancers is totally different.

We’ve got a black & white theme for the costumes. Betty & Stella have dresses that are black with white polka dots while Devora and mine are white with black polka dots. Our belts are of the contrasting fabric.

So the plans was that we’d have similarly contrasting bras. One cup would be covered with white fabric and the other side with black. And which cups would depend on who was wearing them. And then the black side would get a white strap and the band would be white and vice versa for the other side

We decided on white bras because we could turn white fabric black more easily that the reverse (with a Sharpie, if necessary. I share our glamourous costuming secrets!) We’re lucky enough to have an odd-lots store nearby where we can get bras inexpensively. Unfortunately Stella is a size that’s hard-to-find and we couldn’t find a bra in that same style the rest of us were using and the one that was picked out for her was unflattering and fit poorly.

On the drive to Johnstown I covered bras for me and D.D. while Betty did her own. Friday Scratch bought a number of bras for Stella to try — all of them black. I realized 3 white bras and 1 black bra would make us crazy, so we ran out and bought a black bra for Betty.

Saturday, I covered the new bra for Betty and on Sunday, Stella picked the glass slipper of a bra and Betty covered it right at rehearsal. Then we all attached trim to the bras. Well, Devora is sewing Stella’s.

The bras still need some rhinestones, but they’re looking pretty good. We were able to do the black/white contrasting straps (yay for removable bra straps!), but we’ve (temporarily?) punted the contrasting bands. We haven’t been able to come up with a way to do it that would be both quick and easy and probably be able to be done in a car.

If I’d been clever, I would have taken pictures, but you can wait for the results from Cleveland, right?

M2

P.S. We’ll be appearing at the opening of the Carrie Nation Cocktail Club tonight!

Published in: on 29 July 2013 at 11:23 am  Leave a Comment  
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Busy: Sewing Edition

Dear Constant Reader,


We’re down to the final weeks! It’s your last chance to vote for The Boston Babydolls for “Best Theatre Group” and B.A.B.E. for “Best Dance Classes“!

The Sewing Room* at Stately Babydoll Manor has been pretty busy of late! We’re bringing a practically new act to The Ohio Burlesque Festival and It’s needed a lot of work. I say practically because we have performed it before, but all that remains is the music and the concept. Now it has twice as many dancers, completely new choreography, and new costumes.

And it’s those costumes that have been filling my hours. Fortunately, the new dresses:
Vixin's Ahoy dress 2 -2013
were made by Marion at Vixens Ahoy. And I’m terribly grateful, especially since I know how little she likes to work in satin.

My job was to add the snap closures. Then move and resew the snaps. Add reenforcement and resew the snaps. Move the snaps again. For some reason, despite carefully fitting, we’ve been unable to get the placement just right. I think we’ve got it now.

And I was volunteered to make the belts. I’ll just say that for such a simple thing, there was more cursing than one expected. Let’s leave it at that. They just need snaps (let’s see if I can get this one right) and faux buckles.

And I’m making 2 of the bras. Betty’s got the other 2. There’s probably going to be a lot of hand-work on the drive to Johnstown this weekend.

Related to the show this weekend, in Pittsburgh, we sold almost all of our stock of pasties, so more of those is on the list as well. Yes, I hand-make all the pasties we sell.

M2
* Actually I do most of my hand sewing on the day bed in the media room. It’s air conditioned in there, I can watch old episodes of The X-Files, and there’s a large white cat.

Published in: on 17 July 2013 at 10:08 am  Leave a Comment  
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Dress Progress

Dear Constant Reader,


Vote for The Boston Babydolls for “Best Theatre Group” and B.A.B.E. for “Best Dance Classes“!

dressI took advantage of the holiday last week to work on the Fit & Flair dress. Great progress was made in a very short time!

I finally had the time and patience to put in the zipper. I used a lapped technique I found on some sewing website and it seems to have worked. And I hardly cursed at all. Once that hurdle was jumped, putting the two halves together was a snap. I sewed the front to the back along the top of the sleeves/bodice first, then the underside of the sleeves/side seam of bodice and skirt.

As you can see here, modeled by My Little Friend, one might almost think it was wearable.

facingNext step was to make the neck facing. I decided to interface it, which made me procrastinate a bit. The interfacing is cut without seam allowances and there are 3 different sizes of seam allowance on these pattern pieces. Kind of fussy. Then it had to be fused with a steam iron. It was pushing 100 degrees and humid in Boston, so I was less than thrilled about firing up the iron.

I was baffled by the directions for the facing before I realized that they were out of order. Steps 2 and 4 had been swapped, telling you to sew the facing to the dress, before you joined the back facing to the front facing. Yikes! Fortunately, the diagrams were in the correct place. I suppose I should drop a note to Folkwear in case they ever re-release the pattern.

Next step (in the right order) is turn and sew the outside raw edge, then sew the facing to the neckline. After that, it’s just finishing work! I love hemming!*

M2
* That’s a lie.

Published in: on 10 July 2013 at 10:30 am  Leave a Comment  
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Review: Embellishments

Dear Constant Reader,

Vote for The Boston Babydolls for “Best Theatre Group” and B.A.B.E. for “Best Dance Classes“!

Buy your tickets to The Teaseday Club on July 9th in my name! I’ll do something nice for all my supporters!

Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Detail by Astrida Schaeffer (2013)

Inspired by an exhibit at the University of New Hampshire Museum, which she curated, Ms. Schaeffer presents a number of the elaborate Victorian gowns from the museum’s collection. The book focuses on 10 gowns, beautifully photographed, dating from the 1870’s to 1909. There are many close-up photos showing details of those gowns and others to illustrate the embellishment techniques used.

So where’s the burlesque in all this? Ms. Shaeffer doesn’t only show the embellishments used, she explains how to do them! With clear instructions and diagrams she shows the reader ruching, pleats, ribbon work, binding, piping, cord & braid work, and appliqué. The possibilities for your own costumes are endless! There is more to embellishment than just rhinestones (shocking, I know…).

I got my copy through Astrida’s Kickstarter campaign, but you can buy yours direct from the author at ShaefferArts. And if you ever need a custom mannequin, she’s your gal!

M2

Published in: on 3 July 2013 at 10:26 am  Leave a Comment  
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More Progress

Dear Constant Reader,

I have not forgotten my new dress. I’ve just been terribly busy. Over the weekend I managed to get a little bit of blissful sewing in.

Each half of the skirt back is now stitched to one of the back bodice halves. The two halves of the back are sewn and basted together, in preparation of putting in the zipper.

The zipper might be a little challenging. The directions just say to follow the zipper manufacturers instructions for a lapped zipper insertion. My zipper didn’t come with any such instructions, nor are there any on its website. I expanded my search.

It turns out there are 2 ways to set in a lapped zipper. I rejected the one that would have involved a modification my pattern didn’t have. I’m working a little on faith here, because I can’t quite visualize the end result.

Ultimately, I pinned the zipper in place and chickened out. Maybe I’ll have to courage this week. After all, what’s the worst that happens? I have to rip it out. Frustrating, but not life-threatening.

Tune in and see what happens!

M2

Published in: on 17 June 2013 at 10:28 am  Leave a Comment  
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More Sewing

Dear Constant Reader,

Please vote for The Boston Babydolls as “Best Theatre Group” on The Boston A-List. We’re currently in 5th place!

More stitching yesterday. I sewed the other 3 darts and then seamed the front bodice together. What do you think?
Bodice
That white line has nothing to do with it, by the way. That’s just some chalk left over from when I was figuring out placement.

Next step was putting in the pockets. Pockets! Oh joy! That wasn’t me being sarcastic. I love pockets. And they’re easy when they’re on a seam. Once that was done, I had the whole front of the skirt sewn together. Then I sewed the skirt front to the bodice front.

This should give you a rough idea of what the finished product will look like.
front
I also sewed the skirt back pieces together. I would have done more, but at this point it was time to pick up Scratch and Betty from the airport. Next up, the back skirt panels need to be pressed and then sewn to the two pieces of the back bodice. The rest of my week is pretty busy what with rehearsal tonight, chair dance class and the DrinkOne benefit tomorrow, and weddings over the weekend. I’m not sure when I’ll pick this up again.
M2

Published in: on 5 June 2013 at 11:09 am  Leave a Comment  
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First Steps

Dear Constant Reader,

Please vote for The Boston Babydolls as “Best Theatre Group” on The Boston A-List. You only have to vote once!

I have begun the Fit & Flair dress with my least favorite part: cutting. It wasn’t too terrible. The cotton fabric is quite crisp, even after washing, so it stayed put. Fabric that slithers makes me crazy.

I had to be a little clever in my lay-out. The material is supposed to be folded across the width, as opposed to the usual way along the length, because the majority of the pieces are too wide for a half width. However, the floral pattern is directional, so I couldn’t just fold the fabric. If I did, half the skirt would have upside down flowers. This also meant I couldn’t place the pieces as shown on the pattern layout or I would also have upside down flowers.

So, I marked all the pieces that were getting cut this way (all the skirt panels except the front, the pockets, and facings) and then cut that swath of fabric off. Then I laid it on top of the remaining fabric. Then I started to cut and began to curse. I had made a total rookie mistake. Both pieces of fabric were right side up. That meant instead of mirror images, I was going to have 2 left sides. Fortunately, I caught it very early. And I had bought a little extra fabric. Of course the bit I cut was a curve, so I lost quite a bit of fabric.

Having flipped the fabric, so both sections were wrong side in, I finished cutting that part and was starting to worry about those slashes interfering. I cut the center skirt panel (on the fold) and just had the bodice pieces to worry about.

The bodice and dolman sleeves are cut in one, which means there has to be a center front seam. I find them very distracting, especially when they break a pattern, so I was resolved to match the pattern. This was an exacting process but kind of fun. It’s the kind of problem solving I enjoy. With all luck, the center front seam will hardly be noticeable. *fingers crossed*. The back was no big deal to cut and I’m left with a goodly amount of fabric (if I work around two slashes). Maybe it will become a charming purse.

And this was the result!
pieces
So exciting, I know. I keep the fabric pieces paired with the pattern pieces until I start to sew on them. It lessens confusion.

The next step is to get sewing! And we started with possibly my second least favorite things — darts. Both the front and the back of the bodice are darted for a good fit. I don’t mind sewing darts; it’s marking them that gives me grief.

Eventually I prevailed and did this:
dart
Then my bobbin ran out of thread and I took that as a sign that I should hang it up for the night.

M2

Published in: on 4 June 2013 at 3:14 pm  Leave a Comment  
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My Sewing Machine

Dear Constant Reader,

Yesterday you saw my sewing room and there in my sewing machine. My friend Lucianus got very excited about my vintage machine, having one much like it, so I thought I’d share a little more about it.

It’s a late ’50’s Singer Slant-O-Matic 403 and I adore it. Some parts have worn out and been replaced over the years, like the belt, light, spool holders, but for the most part it’s all original. When my mother had it, it was mounted in a table. I was still in college when she gave it to me, so she had it converted to a “portable” (it’s quite heavy). Now, of course, that I’m settled at Stately Babydoll Manor I wish the table still existed…

I’ve still got the original instruction manual (©1958)
Sewing Machine Manual
and the box of attachments
Sewing Machine Box
This little delight contains all sorts of goodies, like the feet: general purpose foot, straight stitch foot, seam guide, zipper foot, hemming foot, button sewing foot, multi-slotted binder, and ruffler.

It also contains the “fashion disks“. These are cams you drop in the top of the machine to make fancy stitches. Without any, you can only straight stitch. I always have #0 in place, for basic zigzag. I’ll be honest –I’ve never used any other the others. It was only last night that I realized that I had all the original disks, less #9. One wayward part after 55 years — not too bad.

As I mentioned, the one thing I don’t love about this machine is making buttonholes. It’s a complicated process involving repeatedly changing the needle position and the stitch length. I’ve never been able to successfully make nice buttonholes. It’s easier to make them by hand.

Lucianus opened my eyes to the fact that there a buttonholer for my machine! And someone was selling a complete set on eBay. Needless to say I jumped at the opportunity. I’ll let you know how it works out.

M2

Published in: on 30 May 2013 at 11:28 am  Leave a Comment  
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