New Hanky

Dear Constant Reader,

Last month I advised you to carry a handkerchief and shared a few from my collection. Here is the newest acquisition:
Or at least one corner of it (plus my shadow…).

It’s shadow work embroidery on fine cotton batiste. Shadow embroidery is done on the wrong side of the fabric with a herringbone stitch, so on the right side all you see is an outline and the mere shadow of the stitches underneath. It doesn’t photograph so well, so you’ll have to trust me that it’s lovely and delicate.

I’m particularly pleased because I made it myself and it’s been a long time since I finished a piece of embroidery. My Unfinished Projects drawer is fuller than I care to admit and I’m working it down. In between rehearsing and working on costumes for The Wrathskellar, of course.

M2

Published in: on 18 August 2015 at 2:26 pm  Leave a Comment  
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What Ever Happened to that Evening Gown?

Dear Constant Reader,

About a year ago you voted in my Dress Me contest and I selected the 1933 evening gown for me to make.

And since then, I haven’t done a heck of a lot. There always seemed to be a more urgent piece of sewing. And yet that pile of fabric just wouldn’t go away. It kept taunting my lack of dedication. This past weekend I buckled down to make the mock up.

Volia!

The real thing won’t be that hideous green. It will also be floor length. I only cut the skirts long enough to check the fit in the hips. It looks a little askew in the picture because I’ve folded the seam allowance in on one side, but not the other.

It definitely needs to be fitted under the arms and maybe a tiny bit of ease in the hips. Also, I need to find a bra that will work with that low back. I tried it without a bra and the results were not pretty. Also, I need to get up my courage and dye the silk. And eventually I need to pick a couple of buttons for the back. It could happen before next year…

M2

Published in: on 8 July 2015 at 2:59 pm  Comments (1)  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! I’m delighted to be in Chicago for the Windy City Burlesque Festival. Tomorrow morning I’ll be teaching a class all about corsetry. I thought I’d give you a little teaser for your Friday Tip.

When unfastening a corset, start at the top and work down. Or start at the bottom and work up. Just don’t change directions in the middle.

The middle clasp is often the hardest to unfasten, because there is the most pressure on it. Leaving it for last puts even more pressure on it. This can cause your busk to bend, which can wreck your corset. Make sure your lacings are nice and loose, especially at your waist, before you start to unfasten. Don’t give up on that middle clasp, it gets easier after you’ve got it undone.

Want to know more about how to wear and remove corsets? Come to Getting Tight: A Guide to Corsetry at 11am on Saturday at the Windy City Burlesque Festival!

M2

Published in: on 12 June 2015 at 11:21 am  Leave a Comment  
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Costume-Con 33

Dear Constant Reader,

I know I’m very late with this missive, but I also know you forgive me.

A couple of weeks ago I ventured to lovely Charleston, South Carolina for Costume-Con, the annual gathering of the International Costumers Guild and a mecca for all things costume-y. You might remember that I attended last year in Toronto.

Last year I was solo, but this year I was part of a group of fabulously talented costumers, putting together an entry for the Historical Masquerade. It’s a particularly challenging competition and we only added to the difficulty by living far enough apart that the first time all nine members of the group were together was Friday night. I never thought I’d say this, but thank goodness for Facebook — it’s how we communicated and shared our progress. More about our specific costumes later.

The first costume-related event of the weekend was an unofficial one. A couple of us grabbed our mermaid tails (or monofins, depending on the progress of building said tail) and went down to the pool for a swim. Rae’s tail is really gorgeous, but has a *lot* of drag. Mine is better for swimming, but is not as stunning. We’ve got plans to make new ones that suit our needs more.

The event had the theme of “Buccaneers, Belles, and Bootleggers”, all things for which Charleston has been famous (or infamous) and the Friday Night Social was a Speakeasy. I put on a 1920’s-style dress, after carefully pining the shoulders so they didn’t accidentally break away. Yeah, I originally made it for stage.

It was nice to see/meet all the members of our costume group. I spent most of the evening admiring outfits — there were vintage gowns and recreations and stunning outfits that nothing to do with the theme at all. I was please to see a lovely reproduction of of Cyd Charisse’s green costume from Singing in the Rain walking around as I had admired it on display in Toronto. The libations at the bar were uninteresting to say the least, but the refreshments included some southern specialties (pulled pork, crab dip, and peach cobbler).

I managed to stay awake for the Single Pattern Competition where the contestants get creative with a pre-selected pattern. I should have entered — all the patterns were from Folkwear, which I love, and none that I had made before. By the way, the dress I’m wearing for the social was made from one of their patterns. Hopefully I inspired someone, who had given up that pattern because of the weird cut of the skirt, to try again because of my successful results.

Saturday I was at loose ends for most of the day as all my roommates prepared for the SF&F Masquerade that night. I browsed the vendors (sadly, that didn’t take too long as there were only two), Miss Lizzie’s Traveling Fashion Show, the Guest of Honor’s display, the doll competition, and the quilt display.

It seemed a crime not to leave the hotel and see the actual city of Charleston (we were technically in North Charleston), so I called a cab and sped off toward adventure. Okay, really I had done a little research and found a restaurant with good reviews, serving local cuisine. I was deliberately early so I could walk around and see some of the city. Sadly, I wasn’t really near anything famous or historic, but I did see some nifty architecture. Doubly sadly, I had forgotten to change into flats and ended up with some epic blisters.

Dinner, however, at The Hominy Grill, was fabulous. I had she-crab soup (pictured), which if I’d known how good it was going to be, I probably would have had a bowl and made that dinner. Instead, I had a Nasty Biscuit — a biscuit (naturally) with a slab of fried chicken, cheddar, and sausage gravy. And there were boiled peanuts too, something I’ve always heard about but never tried. I was going to pass on dessert, although the buttermilk pie sounded intriguing, but the waitress sold me on their chocolate pudding. I’m so glad she did.

I was back at the hotel in plenty of time to dress and attend the Science Fiction and Fantasy Masquerade. (Photo by Leslie Johnston). And see my roommates win various awards.

Sunday was a busy day. We had to rehearse our presentation (and none of us were available at the same time), which we did by the elevators on our floor to (I hope) the amusement of the cleaning staff. We had a tech rehearsal on the stage. And we met with the judges to have our costumes examined minutely for their workmanship. This is really important for many historical costumes as there are often underlayers, structural garments, or interior finishes which one cannot see from stage. There was also frantic work to help one member of group actually finish sewing her costume before the pre-judging.

Eventually there was nothing left to do but get ready and here’s the result:
(Photo here and below by Ken Warren)
Our concept was what if the Victoria’s Secret fashion show was actually Victorian. Each of us chose a 19th century inspiration for our fantastical undergarments: Egyptomania, a Tiffany lamp, Van Gogh’s Starry Night, a Faberge egg, flowers, and Queen Victoria’s coronation. We also had one inspired directly by the modern fashion show — The Million Dollar Corset. Also, a showgirl who turned our title cards, and our celebrity host, John Philip Sousa. Note the wings and other absurd accessories on the models.

I made the chemise and drawers, corset, and mantle (as much as it might have been fun to have wings, we needed a few wingless costumes and I volunteered, knowing my luggage would be restricted by flying). The crown structure was made by Rae Bradbury-Enslin and rhinestoned by me. I’m really happy with how it all came out, especially the corset. It’s cream brocade, bound with white satin, and the pattern on the brocade is picked out in varying shades of gold rhinestones. It was a pain to bone, with lots of tiny boning channels to sew, but worth it. Expect to see parts of this costume incorporated in a new burlesque act.

Judging is done in three categories: documentation, workmanship, and presentation. I’m pleased to say that we won a recognition for the attractiveness of our documentation (that was all due to Rae’s hard work). Several members of the group received awards for workmanship, particularly Bill who won Best in Class in the Master Division for his flawless (that’s what the judges said!) recreation of John Phillip Sousa’s outfit. And in presentation…

And because it wasn’t like Rae had enough to do wrangling all of us and making the documentation beautiful, she also made T-shirts:

As much as I wanted to stay up and celebrate with the others, morning and my flight back to Boston was going to come way too early…

M2

Published in: on 8 June 2015 at 3:58 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! Before I bestow your Friday Tip upon you, I just want to remind you that I’ll be teaching a delightfully informative, yet entertaining, class on Corsetry at The Windy City Burlesque Festival on Saturday, June 13th.

And here is your tip!

To keep the prong settings of rhinestones from catching on everything, cover them with fine tulle.

The audience won’t notice the netting from stage. Heck, they probably won’t even notice it close up. You can just barely see the tulle in this photo taken mere inches away from one of my gowns:

You’ll get sparkle without snags!

M2

Published in: on 5 June 2015 at 12:17 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

I’m sorry for my lack of missives this week. I just wasn’t feeling like sitting at my writing desk. Fortunately I have this custom of Friday Tips and I wouldn’t want to deprive you. Soon I hope to get back to my reporting on The Expo — there’s only a little more to go.

And here is your tip!

Get a good pair of fabric scissors and use them to cut fabric only.

Your fabric scissors should be sacrosanct. Don’t use them to cut paper, sequins, buckram, plastic, metallic threads, &c. Anything but fabric will dull the blades. And do get them professionally sharpened from time to time.

I tie ribbons to the handles of my junky scissors so that in the clutter of my sharp-things drawer, I can easily find the ones to use on the forbidden materials.

M2

Published in: on 10 April 2015 at 2:27 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Expo 2015: The Costume Exhibit

Dear Constant Reader,

(Read about The Rhinestone Revue, The Bordello, The Conference, and The Main Event.)

The Costume Exhibit is near & dear to my heart, because, well, costumes! BettySioux Tailor and Blizen von Schtupp do a fabulous job every year setting up a lovely display.


I love the panorama function!

Here were have, from left to right:

  • “Krampus” by Blizten von Schtupp with handmade mask by Rick Sardinha and faux fur coat by BettySioux Tailor
  • “Round Midnight” by Betty Blaize, from fabric hand-selected in Bangalore, India.
  • “Taki Rari Burly” by Dot Mitzvah, seen in The Rhinestone Revue 2013
  • “The Fly” by BettySioux Tailor. This picture doesn’t show the headdress with rhinestones eyes.

Here are 3 costumes courtesy of Angie Pontani: two vintage showgirl costumes (which were for sale and both of them were snapped up) and her “Madame Pompadour” costume. Next to them is a showgirl costume from maybe the 1970’s worn at the Primadonna Casino & Cabaret in Reno, NV, from Scratch’s collection.

And here we have:

  • “Pink Passion” by Blaze, The Red Rose of Texas / Red Rose Regalia for Ginger Valentine to wear in the 2014 Burlesque Hall of Fame Queen Competition.
  • “The Faerie Queene” by me, headress by Whisper de Corvo, fan by Cassandra Annati
  • “Ringmistress” by Vivienne LaFlamme, with a 1930s Knights Templar jacket.

I know there are better pictures out there, but until they surface, you’ll just have to suffer with my phone snaps.

Next year will be the tenth anniversary of The Expo, please consider making a contribution to make it super-amazing. And if you have a fabulous costume, modern or vintage, consider submitting it for the exhibit. If all goes according to plan, we should have a great on-line submission process for next year.

M2

Published in: on 2 April 2015 at 1:42 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! Here in Boston it’s sub-Arctic outside, but I don’t care. I’ve got woolly leopard-print mitts to keep my hands toasty while I write to you. And tonight is the first performance of Bumps Upon a Grind, where I know our loving audience will cheer for us warmly.

Here’s your tip!

Use the right needle for the job.

When you’re sewing, make sure the needle you’re using is appropriate to the material. The wrong size or shape needle can really screw up your project. Today I’m going to talk about machine needles. Maybe another time I’ll hold forth about hand-sewing needles.

This is a really crummy picture I yanked off the Internets, but at least it shows some of the different kinds of machine needles.

They’re color-coded*! Isn’t that great? Orange bands are for delicate fabrics, blue bands are for medium-weight, and purple are for heavy-weight. You can also get super-light-weight (green) for those really fine sheers and super-heavy-weight (grey).

Red-topped needles are sharps for woven fabrics; yellow-topped needles are ballpoints for knits. There are also special needles for denim & canvas and for leather.

Lay in a good supply of the kind you use most because there is nothing more frustrating than breaking your last needle and seeing the project come to a grinding halt. You might be tempted to use one of the other types or sizes you have, but resist!

M2
* This is the Singer color-code. Other brands of needles have different coding. I have a vintage Singer machine, so those are the needles I use. Singer surely doesn’t pay me to endorse their brand…

Published in: on 6 February 2015 at 12:16 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday!

Here’s your tip!

To keep the cut ends of ribbon from fraying, cut on a diagonal or seal with clear nail polish, FrayChek, or (my favorite) glitter paint.

M2

Published in: on 5 December 2014 at 4:31 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Los Angeles: Sunday, 11/23/14

Dear Constant Reader,

Sunday we had a date in the Fashion District. We met up with Sheila Starr Siani and her offspring, Mowgli and Mogwai, Jessabelle Thunder, and Lili VonSchtupp & Funny Eddie to explore the myriad of shops. It was utterly overwhelming and I’m glad we had some native guides.

I thought NYC had fabulous costume shopping, but LA beats it all to hell. I can’t even begin to count the number of fabric shops we visited — mostly little storefront things crammed with bolts & bolts of fabric. And there were also the trimmings stores, the rhinestone places (loose & in jewelry), and I think there was even ready-to-wear, but we didn’t get to any of those. There is no excuse to be a poorly costumed burlesque dancer in Los Angeles.

I was fairly restrained in my personal shopping, but we have a passel of backup dancers to clothe for the New Year’s Eve Spectacular. Scratch picked up so much stuff that we were concerned about getting it home. Most of it is now in the capable hands of Marion at Vixens Ahoy. Betty had requested some show-stopping fabric for a new dress and boy, did she get it. It’s not in the above photo, so you’ll just have to wait and see it in person on (and off) Betty.

That night we had another show to perform in, a stand-up comedy showcase which occasionally had burlesque. We were invited by someone who had been slated to perform at The Teaseday Club and was repaying the favor.

Let me digress for a moment and talk about payment. There’s been a *lot* of talk lately in the burlesque community about not performing for free. (Yes, there are exceptions, but for the most part, don’t give it away). Scratch pointed out that there are 2 ways to pay your performers: with cash or with love & respect. Friday night at Peepshow Menagerie we got both: a guaranteed minimum (and they did well at the door so we got more than the promised), comps, drink tickets, good communication, and overall a pleasant experience.

This gig had none of that. I knew it was a freebie and we were mostly doing it for fun. Except it wasn’t fun. There was a distinct lack of communication and stage management. In fact, there wasn’t a set list posted or any performer amenities, not even freakin’ bottles of water in the green room. However, most of the other performers were perfectly nice and as confused as we were about what was going on. Some of them were also funny on stage.

I went on early (after having my slot moved around more than once. And one of those times I learned I had been moved in the line-up was when I was waiting to go on and the host announced someone else). Scratch went on late, but we couldn’t even leave after his act because he had to leave his table full of magic equipment on stage. There was nowhere to move it to and he can’t break it down in view of the audience. So we stuck it out to the bitter end.

I did a fan dance, mostly because it’s a no-brainer for me. And I realized it was good that I didn’t need any pick up. I guess Scratch could have done it for me because the venue certainly didn’t have anyone. Before I started I had already noticed that the stage was carpeted. I could deal. Once I got on stage I realized the ceiling was only about 7 feet high. Okay, I’ll need to be careful with the overhead moves. And then I saw that the walls were mirrored. Yeah, that kind of kills the tease. Oh well. I did the best I could with what I had. The audience didn’t seem too into it until I finally revealed all at the end. However, I got a lot of compliments later and one of the comics mentioned me in his set (in a good way).

The show was interminable (I think it ran about 2 & a half hours without an intermission). Just as the last comic was finishing up her set, she wandered over to the table Scratch had left at the far side of the stage, picked up one of the pieces from his trick and flashed the gimmick at the audience. WHO DOES THAT?

Afterwards she complimented me on my act and I just said “thank you” because if I said anything else I was going to find myself with my hands around her throat, screaming “Kindergarten rules! If it’s not yours, don’t touch it!”

The only good part of the evening was that Joe K., our stage manager from the first run of Madame Burlesque, had just moved to L.A. Like, he arrived the day before, after having driven cross-country most of the month. Scratch got him comped into the show (we weren’t offered comps; Scratch just steamrollered the door girl) and afterwards we went to Mel’s Drive-In for sliders & fries & pie and to catch up.

Next up, our last day…

M2

Published in: on 3 December 2014 at 2:30 pm  Leave a Comment  
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