Making Do and Mending

Dear  Constant Reader,

VRA few years ago I made a costume for the Historical Masquerade at Costume-Con 33. You can read all about it here. Short version: what if the Victoria’s Secret fashion show was actual held in the Victorian era. Thus, Victorian Secret! I made a historically accurate Victorian corset — that is, accurate in pattern and construction, not the thousands of rhinestones decorating it — and drawers and a chemise. The mantle and crown are because my theme was Victoria’s coronation.
(Photo by Ken Warren)

MISSMINAMURRAY_AnthonyJColegaI spent a lot of time and effort on the corset because I knew I’d use it again in a burlesque costume — which I did. I also entered said costume at Costume-Con 37 and you can see it in our show on April 30. However, I didn’t think I’d ever wear the drawers and chemise again. I hated to just have them hanging in the closet, but it’s not like I frequently wear Victorian attire and they were vital to the costume presentation.
(Photo by Anthony J. Colega)

I realized recently that the drawers and chemise would make great summer lounging attire. It gets hot in my atelier, despite the ceiling fan the ever-thoughtful Mr. Scratch installed, and the underthings are made of thin, nay, even  translucent, cotton (I’m wearing pasties under them in the above picture. Just in case). The pretty pintucks and lace are just a bonus.

Unfortunately, the drawers had fallen off the hanger to the floor of my closet and during a mouse infestation, got nibbled. There were wee holes chewed hither and yon. The good news was they were only on one leg. The bad new was that they were so numerous and wide-spread that patching was not an option.

Fortunately, I had just enough cotton left over to cut one new leg. Then I stalled because I really didn’t feel like doing another set of pintucks, especially when the first ones were so even and matched so nicely on each leg.

Then I had an inspiration — I pinned the old leg and the new leg together and marked the stitching line for the first row of pintucks. I cut the old leg above it and the new leg below it. Then I sewed the new leg and the pintucked bit together just at that stitching line, using my stitch-in-the-ditch foot (also called an edge joiner). You can’t even tell  there’s a seam there!

Because the fabric is so sheer, the seam allowance was visible from the outside if I pressed it open, so I flat felled the seam toward the tucks and sewed it down with very teeny hand stitches behind the first pintuck where the extra fabric hides the seam.

Mended Victorian DrawersTada! I can’t even tell which leg is the mended one unless I turn the drawers inside out. I’m glad I was able to salvage these from the ravages of rodents and I’ll have something cool and comfy to wear this summer whilst I sew.

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Published in: on 15 March 2022 at 3:21 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Costume-Con 33

Dear Constant Reader,

I know I’m very late with this missive, but I also know you forgive me.

A couple of weeks ago I ventured to lovely Charleston, South Carolina for Costume-Con, the annual gathering of the International Costumers Guild and a mecca for all things costume-y. You might remember that I attended last year in Toronto.

Last year I was solo, but this year I was part of a group of fabulously talented costumers, putting together an entry for the Historical Masquerade. It’s a particularly challenging competition and we only added to the difficulty by living far enough apart that the first time all nine members of the group were together was Friday night. I never thought I’d say this, but thank goodness for Facebook — it’s how we communicated and shared our progress. More about our specific costumes later.

The first costume-related event of the weekend was an unofficial one. A couple of us grabbed our mermaid tails (or monofins, depending on the progress of building said tail) and went down to the pool for a swim. Rae’s tail is really gorgeous, but has a *lot* of drag. Mine is better for swimming, but is not as stunning. We’ve got plans to make new ones that suit our needs more.

The event had the theme of “Buccaneers, Belles, and Bootleggers”, all things for which Charleston has been famous (or infamous) and the Friday Night Social was a Speakeasy. I put on a 1920’s-style dress, after carefully pining the shoulders so they didn’t accidentally break away. Yeah, I originally made it for stage.

It was nice to see/meet all the members of our costume group. I spent most of the evening admiring outfits — there were vintage gowns and recreations and stunning outfits that nothing to do with the theme at all. I was please to see a lovely reproduction of of Cyd Charisse’s green costume from Singing in the Rain walking around as I had admired it on display in Toronto. The libations at the bar were uninteresting to say the least, but the refreshments included some southern specialties (pulled pork, crab dip, and peach cobbler).

I managed to stay awake for the Single Pattern Competition where the contestants get creative with a pre-selected pattern. I should have entered — all the patterns were from Folkwear, which I love, and none that I had made before. By the way, the dress I’m wearing for the social was made from one of their patterns. Hopefully I inspired someone, who had given up that pattern because of the weird cut of the skirt, to try again because of my successful results.

Saturday I was at loose ends for most of the day as all my roommates prepared for the SF&F Masquerade that night. I browsed the vendors (sadly, that didn’t take too long as there were only two), Miss Lizzie’s Traveling Fashion Show, the Guest of Honor’s display, the doll competition, and the quilt display.

It seemed a crime not to leave the hotel and see the actual city of Charleston (we were technically in North Charleston), so I called a cab and sped off toward adventure. Okay, really I had done a little research and found a restaurant with good reviews, serving local cuisine. I was deliberately early so I could walk around and see some of the city. Sadly, I wasn’t really near anything famous or historic, but I did see some nifty architecture. Doubly sadly, I had forgotten to change into flats and ended up with some epic blisters.

Dinner, however, at The Hominy Grill, was fabulous. I had she-crab soup (pictured), which if I’d known how good it was going to be, I probably would have had a bowl and made that dinner. Instead, I had a Nasty Biscuit — a biscuit (naturally) with a slab of fried chicken, cheddar, and sausage gravy. And there were boiled peanuts too, something I’ve always heard about but never tried. I was going to pass on dessert, although the buttermilk pie sounded intriguing, but the waitress sold me on their chocolate pudding. I’m so glad she did.

I was back at the hotel in plenty of time to dress and attend the Science Fiction and Fantasy Masquerade. (Photo by Leslie Johnston). And see my roommates win various awards.

Sunday was a busy day. We had to rehearse our presentation (and none of us were available at the same time), which we did by the elevators on our floor to (I hope) the amusement of the cleaning staff. We had a tech rehearsal on the stage. And we met with the judges to have our costumes examined minutely for their workmanship. This is really important for many historical costumes as there are often underlayers, structural garments, or interior finishes which one cannot see from stage. There was also frantic work to help one member of group actually finish sewing her costume before the pre-judging.

Eventually there was nothing left to do but get ready and here’s the result:
(Photo here and below by Ken Warren)
Our concept was what if the Victoria’s Secret fashion show was actually Victorian. Each of us chose a 19th century inspiration for our fantastical undergarments: Egyptomania, a Tiffany lamp, Van Gogh’s Starry Night, a Faberge egg, flowers, and Queen Victoria’s coronation. We also had one inspired directly by the modern fashion show — The Million Dollar Corset. Also, a showgirl who turned our title cards, and our celebrity host, John Philip Sousa. Note the wings and other absurd accessories on the models.

I made the chemise and drawers, corset, and mantle (as much as it might have been fun to have wings, we needed a few wingless costumes and I volunteered, knowing my luggage would be restricted by flying). The crown structure was made by Rae Bradbury-Enslin and rhinestoned by me. I’m really happy with how it all came out, especially the corset. It’s cream brocade, bound with white satin, and the pattern on the brocade is picked out in varying shades of gold rhinestones. It was a pain to bone, with lots of tiny boning channels to sew, but worth it. Expect to see parts of this costume incorporated in a new burlesque act.

Judging is done in three categories: documentation, workmanship, and presentation. I’m pleased to say that we won a recognition for the attractiveness of our documentation (that was all due to Rae’s hard work). Several members of the group received awards for workmanship, particularly Bill who won Best in Class in the Master Division for his flawless (that’s what the judges said!) recreation of John Phillip Sousa’s outfit. And in presentation…

And because it wasn’t like Rae had enough to do wrangling all of us and making the documentation beautiful, she also made T-shirts:

As much as I wanted to stay up and celebrate with the others, morning and my flight back to Boston was going to come way too early…

M2

Published in: on 8 June 2015 at 3:58 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Costume-Con 32

Dear Constant Reader,

So, what went on at this Costume-Con I keep speaking of?

This is going to be a long one…

On Friday, I flew to Toronto with my biggest suitcase crammed full of costumes. As soon as I had checked into my hotel, I ran right over to the convention hotel and checked in for my competition (before I even checked in for the convention itself). I gave them my documentation and music and picked times for my pre-judging appointment and tech rehearsal. Then I could actually relax and head back to get ready for the Friday Night Social.

The theme of this year’s convention was Myths, Monsters, and Legends, so it was a Monster Club Social. I wore The Diva’s Coat over a slinky black dress. Not exactly thematic, but at least it was appropriately Gothic.

SnacksThe refreshments were all appropriately themed with bloody beverages and amusing refreshments like popcorn seasoned with aged unicorn tears (cheddar). Adorable Lolita vampire maids were walking around enticing guests to play biting games with the prize of a badge ribbon (not that the maids were biting; you’d alternate sticking your hands in the mouth of a toothy toy and see who got bit). The centerpiece of the evening was the Single Pattern Contest. “Single Pattern” was appropriate, as almost all of the contestants chose the mermaid pattern. (Pix here.)

I couldn’t leaving without posing by the hotel’s grand staircase!
Friday night look
I’m totally lying. There was a photographer with a green screen and a variety of backgrounds on his computer. I’m delighted with how it came out.

Saturday day lookSaturday I went retro with a 1940’s styled dress (yes, I made it) and seamed stockings. Although I attended a workshop and a meet-up, my real focus of the day was the pre-judging. You get to show the judges your costume close-up (and off your body), answer questions, and point out the good stuff. My appointment time neared… and passed… and passed… Although each entry was allotted 15 minutes, the group before me had *eleven* entrants and I guess the judges wanted to see everything. Finally, it was my turn. Only an hour late.

After that I was more than happy to hang out with some friends and plot our costume presentation for next year in South Carolina until it was time for me to head out for Bosoms and Blossoms. By doing so I missed the Fantasy & Sci-Fi Masquerade (aka SF&F), which is the high point of most people’s weekend (Pix here). I heard there were 88 entries and the poor judges weren’t done until about the same time I got back from my gig in the wee hours. I can’t say I totally regret having other plans.

Sunday day lookSunday I slept in and skipped the Future Fashion Show. I wore the same costume I had performed in the night before* (with the corset this time), in a slightly different configuration, since I was definitely not stripping.

Although I had strolled the dealers’ room several times, I was restrained in my purchases. Partially because I didn’t have much Canadian money (at first) and partially because I had no room in my suitcase. I did buy a break-down wig stand, which was much better than the ice bucket I had been using in my room. And my eye kept getting caught by a 1931 dress clip at Ceilidh Creations. Finally I gave in because I was sure it would go nicely with some Deco shoe clips Betty had given me. What do you think?
dress and shoe clips

At last I had my tech rehearsal and then it was time to prepare for the Historical Masquerade. Fortunately, my friend Rae had a room in the convention hotel and let me get ready there. I know she was really nervous, but I was having a great time, dancing around to Weird Al (thanks Bill!).

That’s not to say I wan’t nervous about the competition. I had to show a burlesque costume to its best advantage in an interesting, yet family-friendly way, in under a minute. Also, this was my first time competing in the Master division in the Historical.
Mina at CC32Photo by Terri Meyer Boake

I think it went very well. At least the audience sounded like they liked it. While the judges were deliberating, the entrants went out on stage one by one for the audience to photograph. It felt like I was on stage forever — so many people wanted a shot, especially a rear view. : )

RibbonsI guess the judges thought it went well too. I was awarded Best Documentation in my category and division. I was grinning like a maniac when I went up on stage to get my ribbon. I *sweated* over that documentation. I also received the “Minsky Award” for my presentation (the judges have discretion to give out whatever additional honors they like).

And now I have just over a year to get ready for the next one!

I didn’t take a lot of pictures (and less and less as the weekend wore on), but you can see them here.

M2 *Best Presentation, Master division, Arisia 2008. Just mentioning…

Published in: on 1 May 2014 at 1:51 pm  Leave a Comment  
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