Expo 2015: The Costume Exhibit

Dear Constant Reader,

(Read about The Rhinestone Revue, The Bordello, The Conference, and The Main Event.)

The Costume Exhibit is near & dear to my heart, because, well, costumes! BettySioux Tailor and Blizen von Schtupp do a fabulous job every year setting up a lovely display.


I love the panorama function!

Here were have, from left to right:

  • “Krampus” by Blizten von Schtupp with handmade mask by Rick Sardinha and faux fur coat by BettySioux Tailor
  • “Round Midnight” by Betty Blaize, from fabric hand-selected in Bangalore, India.
  • “Taki Rari Burly” by Dot Mitzvah, seen in The Rhinestone Revue 2013
  • “The Fly” by BettySioux Tailor. This picture doesn’t show the headdress with rhinestones eyes.

Here are 3 costumes courtesy of Angie Pontani: two vintage showgirl costumes (which were for sale and both of them were snapped up) and her “Madame Pompadour” costume. Next to them is a showgirl costume from maybe the 1970’s worn at the Primadonna Casino & Cabaret in Reno, NV, from Scratch’s collection.

And here we have:

  • “Pink Passion” by Blaze, The Red Rose of Texas / Red Rose Regalia for Ginger Valentine to wear in the 2014 Burlesque Hall of Fame Queen Competition.
  • “The Faerie Queene” by me, headress by Whisper de Corvo, fan by Cassandra Annati
  • “Ringmistress” by Vivienne LaFlamme, with a 1930s Knights Templar jacket.

I know there are better pictures out there, but until they surface, you’ll just have to suffer with my phone snaps.

Next year will be the tenth anniversary of The Expo, please consider making a contribution to make it super-amazing. And if you have a fabulous costume, modern or vintage, consider submitting it for the exhibit. If all goes according to plan, we should have a great on-line submission process for next year.

M2

Published in: on 2 April 2015 at 1:42 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! Here in Boston it’s sub-Arctic outside, but I don’t care. I’ve got woolly leopard-print mitts to keep my hands toasty while I write to you. And tonight is the first performance of Bumps Upon a Grind, where I know our loving audience will cheer for us warmly.

Here’s your tip!

Use the right needle for the job.

When you’re sewing, make sure the needle you’re using is appropriate to the material. The wrong size or shape needle can really screw up your project. Today I’m going to talk about machine needles. Maybe another time I’ll hold forth about hand-sewing needles.

This is a really crummy picture I yanked off the Internets, but at least it shows some of the different kinds of machine needles.

They’re color-coded*! Isn’t that great? Orange bands are for delicate fabrics, blue bands are for medium-weight, and purple are for heavy-weight. You can also get super-light-weight (green) for those really fine sheers and super-heavy-weight (grey).

Red-topped needles are sharps for woven fabrics; yellow-topped needles are ballpoints for knits. There are also special needles for denim & canvas and for leather.

Lay in a good supply of the kind you use most because there is nothing more frustrating than breaking your last needle and seeing the project come to a grinding halt. You might be tempted to use one of the other types or sizes you have, but resist!

M2
* This is the Singer color-code. Other brands of needles have different coding. I have a vintage Singer machine, so those are the needles I use. Singer surely doesn’t pay me to endorse their brand…

Published in: on 6 February 2015 at 12:16 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

It’s National Sewing Month! (or at least so Red Snapper tells me…)

Here’s a Sewing Friday Tip!

Use a Post-It as a sewing guide for large seams

Most sewing machines have stitch guides on the throat plate at 1/8″ increments, but they are only the width of the plate. My machine only has marks up to 6/8″, but I sometimes need to sew wider seams that that.

Measure out from the needle and put a Post-It down at the desired distance. I set it so the near edge of the paper (where the sticky stuff is) is the guide. Make sure it’s straight!

Here’s my machine set up for an inch and a half seam.

Of course, you can also use other low-tack sticky items, like masking tape or painters tape to create your temporary guide. I always have Post-Its on my desk (in a very attractive holder, I might add) in my sewing room, so that’s what I grab.

Happy sewing!

M2

Published in: on 12 September 2014 at 11:15 am  Leave a Comment  
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Pasties!

Dear Constant Reader,

We’re about to leave for our little Rust Belt tour (Susquehanna, PA, Cleveland, OH, and Pittsburgh, PA) and that means making sure we’re stocked up on merch. We were totally wiped out of pasties after our show in Portsmouth, so I made some more.

Ta da!

The sequins are hand-sewn, the tassels are tested for twirlability, and all pasties are lined with comfy ultrasuede.

The yellow ones with the pink sequins, by the way, are a genuine remnant of Betty’s over-the-top banana dance costume from A (Re)Movable Feast. They should probably be sitting next to the banana-patterned ones…

M2

Published in: on 29 July 2014 at 11:25 am  Leave a Comment  
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Small Steps

Dear Constant Reader,

First of all, happy anniversary! I’ve been sending you letters for 3 years now! Well, my first missive was 3 years ago yesterday, but who’s counting?

I bet you thought I had forgotten all about my 1933 evening gown. Not so! I’ve just been horrifically busy. I managed to carve out a little time to get this gown started.


Here you see the bodice all cut out. What’s with the hideous green fabric? Before I cut my lovely silk, I want to make sure everything fits properly. I learned my lesson with the Fit & Flair dress! The fabric, by the way, is left over from a Tinkerbell costume from many, many years ago.

Hopefully soon, I’ll baste them all together and we’ll see if the pattern needs tweaking. I’ll probably add some shortened versions of the skirts too.


This is my lovely fabric from Dharma Trading. Those neatly folded piles are silk charmeuse for the gown and habatoi for the lining. I’ll be turning them silver grey with the dye in the jar. The bottle is a textile detergent for both pre- and post-dye washing. Wish me luck! It’s been a while since I dyed silk.

M2

Published in: on 14 July 2014 at 2:16 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Frantically Costuming

Dear Constant Reader,

This past weekend was the biggest event in burlesque, The Burlesque Hall of Fame Weekend (aka BHoF) in Las Vegas. Scratch usually puts in an appearance and plays in the poker tournament while I stay home and have a good time sewing something frivolous.

This year Scratch wasn’t able to go, due to some communication problems. I still spent much of the time sewing away, but it was far from frivolous.

Our summer tour of Madame Burlesqueis going to require that any 3 dancers be able to perform in the trios and duets. We’ve tried to make as many costumes wearable by as many people as possible (like an adjustable skirt that fits all dancers who know the #1 part in the duet), but sometimes that’s not possible.

devora as gypsyLast time we did this show, Devora did a Gypsy Rose Lee tribute and there are no changes to her costume. Yay!. Except she won’t be in all the shows and Scratch feels the act is important to the theme. So, I’ll be doing it when she’s not available. What can I wear? Hat, gloves, parasol are all fine. The skirt is somewhat adjustable and works fine. I have my own corset & garter belt. That leaves the bra. You might have noticed that D.D. and I don’t have a similar sized bust…

Here’s a crummy photo of my Friday night project. Fortunately, this came together pretty quickly. And matching fabric existed.

Also accomplished were a pair of tear-away undies, a new hip belt, and making a fringe skirt stripable. And now I’m onto the tedious project of making 6 matching bras. 4 of which have to be finished by our first show, which is in 10 days. And there’s even more to do. Fortunately, I’m not the only person working on all this. Marion of Vixen’s Ahoy did some, Heather, our production assistant is also an able seamstress, Devora is doing some hand-work, Betty, of course, is working away on several items, and Scratch has projects of his own.

Lest you think I spent the whole weekend toiling away on costumes, I also finished off these knitted wristlets, to fill the gap between glove and coat. Of course, I don’t need them until winter. I hope. You never know with New England. Alas, I never did get to the mock-up of the 1933 Evening Gown.

Back to the sewing room!

M2

Published in: on 10 June 2014 at 11:38 am  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

First, a reminder that it’s almost Teaseday! Do you have your tickets? Brigitte & I will be doing a duet and some B.A.B.E. students will be making their performance debut with a routine choreographed by Brigitte.

Here’s your tip!

When working with hot glue, keep a glass of ice water nearby to dunk your fingers if you get burned.

Especially if you’re using real hot glue and not the low-temp stuff. Touching the hot gun tip is bad enough, but getting glue on your skin… Yowch! Immediate application of the ice water might save you from a bad blister.

M2

Published in: on 30 May 2014 at 2:10 pm  Comments (2)  
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Design Plan

Dear Constant Reader,

I have a plan for the 1933 Evening Gown. I want to make it in silk charmeuse with a habatoi lining. That was a no-brainer. And I want it to be silvery-grey, which I think will make a nice background for the emerald-green of my new vintage dress clip.
dress and shoe clips
And I’d wear the shoe clips too. I’ll probably have to buy new shoes. O woe!

Here’s where the crazy part comes in. Silk charmeuse is rawther pricey. I know a place where one can get it for a really decent price, but in white only. So, I started formulating a crazy plan to dye it myself. I save money and the fashion fabric and lining are exactly the same color. And it’s silk, so I can use an acid dye, which requires white vinegar to activate, instead of smelly, caustic chemicals that you can only buy in 10 lb. sacks.

It’s not that crazy. I’ve dyed silk before. Several times. Mostly quite successfully. But there was this one time….

Acid dyes want hot water to work well. You can use a large pot on the stove, but I don’t do this enough to be willing to dedicate a pot just for dyeing. So, I use the washing machine. The last time I dyed silk, it was the first time in that particular washing machine. The fabric came out gloriously, a beautiful red that was exactly what I had wanted. And then, because I’m overly cautious, I ran several empty loads with a little bleach, and then some more without bleach, and then a couple of loads of dark clothing. Then, confident that all the dye residue had been flushed away, I washed whites. And my summer wardrobe turned the shade of ripe watermelon.

My friends heard my cries of despair and introduced me to Run-Away and Color Catcher sheets. After a lot of work and many tears, I managed to salvage much of the clothing. Later I discovered the washing machine had bad seals or something and some of the dirty water would flow back. I have a new machine, but I’m still scarred by the Pink Incident. Maybe Betty will hold my hand.

But first, I need to make a mock up of the dress in muslin and check the fit. Then I can start worrying about the silk.

M2

Published in: on 29 May 2014 at 12:12 pm  Leave a Comment  
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And the Winner is…

Dear Constant Reader,

And the winner of the Dress Me contest is…


The 1933 Evening Gown!

Second place: Butterick 4790
Tied for 3rd place: Butterick 4919, 6582, 5556, and 5281

Now I need to actually make the gown. Once I’ve decided on fabric and color and then manage to find what I want, I’ll report back and keep you posted on my progress.

When the whole thing is done, I’d like to arrange for a photoshoot and show off my (I hope) stunning new gown.

M2

Published in: on 13 May 2014 at 11:14 am  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday!

First off, here’s where we stand in the Dress Me contest:
1933 Evening Gown: 4
Butterick 4790: 2
Butterick 4919: 1
Butterick 6582 View A: 1
Butterick 5556 View A: 1
Butterick 5556 View B: 1/2

You have until Monday to cast your vote (or choose a second option if you originally picked the Leading Lady Gown).

And here’s your tip!

It can’t hurt to ask.

Getting a “no” at the start is better than having to apologize later. And who knows, the answer might be “yes”!

M2

Published in: on 9 May 2014 at 2:31 pm  Leave a Comment  
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