Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! I’m delighted to be in Chicago for the Windy City Burlesque Festival. Tomorrow morning I’ll be teaching a class all about corsetry. I thought I’d give you a little teaser for your Friday Tip.

When unfastening a corset, start at the top and work down. Or start at the bottom and work up. Just don’t change directions in the middle.

The middle clasp is often the hardest to unfasten, because there is the most pressure on it. Leaving it for last puts even more pressure on it. This can cause your busk to bend, which can wreck your corset. Make sure your lacings are nice and loose, especially at your waist, before you start to unfasten. Don’t give up on that middle clasp, it gets easier after you’ve got it undone.

Want to know more about how to wear and remove corsets? Come to Getting Tight: A Guide to Corsetry at 11am on Saturday at the Windy City Burlesque Festival!

M2

Published in: on 12 June 2015 at 11:21 am  Leave a Comment  
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Costume-Con 33

Dear Constant Reader,

I know I’m very late with this missive, but I also know you forgive me.

A couple of weeks ago I ventured to lovely Charleston, South Carolina for Costume-Con, the annual gathering of the International Costumers Guild and a mecca for all things costume-y. You might remember that I attended last year in Toronto.

Last year I was solo, but this year I was part of a group of fabulously talented costumers, putting together an entry for the Historical Masquerade. It’s a particularly challenging competition and we only added to the difficulty by living far enough apart that the first time all nine members of the group were together was Friday night. I never thought I’d say this, but thank goodness for Facebook — it’s how we communicated and shared our progress. More about our specific costumes later.

The first costume-related event of the weekend was an unofficial one. A couple of us grabbed our mermaid tails (or monofins, depending on the progress of building said tail) and went down to the pool for a swim. Rae’s tail is really gorgeous, but has a *lot* of drag. Mine is better for swimming, but is not as stunning. We’ve got plans to make new ones that suit our needs more.

The event had the theme of “Buccaneers, Belles, and Bootleggers”, all things for which Charleston has been famous (or infamous) and the Friday Night Social was a Speakeasy. I put on a 1920’s-style dress, after carefully pining the shoulders so they didn’t accidentally break away. Yeah, I originally made it for stage.

It was nice to see/meet all the members of our costume group. I spent most of the evening admiring outfits — there were vintage gowns and recreations and stunning outfits that nothing to do with the theme at all. I was please to see a lovely reproduction of of Cyd Charisse’s green costume from Singing in the Rain walking around as I had admired it on display in Toronto. The libations at the bar were uninteresting to say the least, but the refreshments included some southern specialties (pulled pork, crab dip, and peach cobbler).

I managed to stay awake for the Single Pattern Competition where the contestants get creative with a pre-selected pattern. I should have entered — all the patterns were from Folkwear, which I love, and none that I had made before. By the way, the dress I’m wearing for the social was made from one of their patterns. Hopefully I inspired someone, who had given up that pattern because of the weird cut of the skirt, to try again because of my successful results.

Saturday I was at loose ends for most of the day as all my roommates prepared for the SF&F Masquerade that night. I browsed the vendors (sadly, that didn’t take too long as there were only two), Miss Lizzie’s Traveling Fashion Show, the Guest of Honor’s display, the doll competition, and the quilt display.

It seemed a crime not to leave the hotel and see the actual city of Charleston (we were technically in North Charleston), so I called a cab and sped off toward adventure. Okay, really I had done a little research and found a restaurant with good reviews, serving local cuisine. I was deliberately early so I could walk around and see some of the city. Sadly, I wasn’t really near anything famous or historic, but I did see some nifty architecture. Doubly sadly, I had forgotten to change into flats and ended up with some epic blisters.

Dinner, however, at The Hominy Grill, was fabulous. I had she-crab soup (pictured), which if I’d known how good it was going to be, I probably would have had a bowl and made that dinner. Instead, I had a Nasty Biscuit — a biscuit (naturally) with a slab of fried chicken, cheddar, and sausage gravy. And there were boiled peanuts too, something I’ve always heard about but never tried. I was going to pass on dessert, although the buttermilk pie sounded intriguing, but the waitress sold me on their chocolate pudding. I’m so glad she did.

I was back at the hotel in plenty of time to dress and attend the Science Fiction and Fantasy Masquerade. (Photo by Leslie Johnston). And see my roommates win various awards.

Sunday was a busy day. We had to rehearse our presentation (and none of us were available at the same time), which we did by the elevators on our floor to (I hope) the amusement of the cleaning staff. We had a tech rehearsal on the stage. And we met with the judges to have our costumes examined minutely for their workmanship. This is really important for many historical costumes as there are often underlayers, structural garments, or interior finishes which one cannot see from stage. There was also frantic work to help one member of group actually finish sewing her costume before the pre-judging.

Eventually there was nothing left to do but get ready and here’s the result:
(Photo here and below by Ken Warren)
Our concept was what if the Victoria’s Secret fashion show was actually Victorian. Each of us chose a 19th century inspiration for our fantastical undergarments: Egyptomania, a Tiffany lamp, Van Gogh’s Starry Night, a Faberge egg, flowers, and Queen Victoria’s coronation. We also had one inspired directly by the modern fashion show — The Million Dollar Corset. Also, a showgirl who turned our title cards, and our celebrity host, John Philip Sousa. Note the wings and other absurd accessories on the models.

I made the chemise and drawers, corset, and mantle (as much as it might have been fun to have wings, we needed a few wingless costumes and I volunteered, knowing my luggage would be restricted by flying). The crown structure was made by Rae Bradbury-Enslin and rhinestoned by me. I’m really happy with how it all came out, especially the corset. It’s cream brocade, bound with white satin, and the pattern on the brocade is picked out in varying shades of gold rhinestones. It was a pain to bone, with lots of tiny boning channels to sew, but worth it. Expect to see parts of this costume incorporated in a new burlesque act.

Judging is done in three categories: documentation, workmanship, and presentation. I’m pleased to say that we won a recognition for the attractiveness of our documentation (that was all due to Rae’s hard work). Several members of the group received awards for workmanship, particularly Bill who won Best in Class in the Master Division for his flawless (that’s what the judges said!) recreation of John Phillip Sousa’s outfit. And in presentation…

And because it wasn’t like Rae had enough to do wrangling all of us and making the documentation beautiful, she also made T-shirts:

As much as I wanted to stay up and celebrate with the others, morning and my flight back to Boston was going to come way too early…

M2

Published in: on 8 June 2015 at 3:58 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! Before I bestow your Friday Tip upon you, I just want to remind you that I’ll be teaching a delightfully informative, yet entertaining, class on Corsetry at The Windy City Burlesque Festival on Saturday, June 13th.

And here is your tip!

To keep the prong settings of rhinestones from catching on everything, cover them with fine tulle.

The audience won’t notice the netting from stage. Heck, they probably won’t even notice it close up. You can just barely see the tulle in this photo taken mere inches away from one of my gowns:

You’ll get sparkle without snags!

M2

Published in: on 5 June 2015 at 12:17 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

I’m sorry for my lack of missives this week. I just wasn’t feeling like sitting at my writing desk. Fortunately I have this custom of Friday Tips and I wouldn’t want to deprive you. Soon I hope to get back to my reporting on The Expo — there’s only a little more to go.

And here is your tip!

Get a good pair of fabric scissors and use them to cut fabric only.

Your fabric scissors should be sacrosanct. Don’t use them to cut paper, sequins, buckram, plastic, metallic threads, &c. Anything but fabric will dull the blades. And do get them professionally sharpened from time to time.

I tie ribbons to the handles of my junky scissors so that in the clutter of my sharp-things drawer, I can easily find the ones to use on the forbidden materials.

M2

Published in: on 10 April 2015 at 2:27 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Expo 2015: The Costume Exhibit

Dear Constant Reader,

(Read about The Rhinestone Revue, The Bordello, The Conference, and The Main Event.)

The Costume Exhibit is near & dear to my heart, because, well, costumes! BettySioux Tailor and Blizen von Schtupp do a fabulous job every year setting up a lovely display.


I love the panorama function!

Here were have, from left to right:

  • “Krampus” by Blizten von Schtupp with handmade mask by Rick Sardinha and faux fur coat by BettySioux Tailor
  • “Round Midnight” by Betty Blaize, from fabric hand-selected in Bangalore, India.
  • “Taki Rari Burly” by Dot Mitzvah, seen in The Rhinestone Revue 2013
  • “The Fly” by BettySioux Tailor. This picture doesn’t show the headdress with rhinestones eyes.

Here are 3 costumes courtesy of Angie Pontani: two vintage showgirl costumes (which were for sale and both of them were snapped up) and her “Madame Pompadour” costume. Next to them is a showgirl costume from maybe the 1970’s worn at the Primadonna Casino & Cabaret in Reno, NV, from Scratch’s collection.

And here we have:

  • “Pink Passion” by Blaze, The Red Rose of Texas / Red Rose Regalia for Ginger Valentine to wear in the 2014 Burlesque Hall of Fame Queen Competition.
  • “The Faerie Queene” by me, headress by Whisper de Corvo, fan by Cassandra Annati
  • “Ringmistress” by Vivienne LaFlamme, with a 1930s Knights Templar jacket.

I know there are better pictures out there, but until they surface, you’ll just have to suffer with my phone snaps.

Next year will be the tenth anniversary of The Expo, please consider making a contribution to make it super-amazing. And if you have a fabulous costume, modern or vintage, consider submitting it for the exhibit. If all goes according to plan, we should have a great on-line submission process for next year.

M2

Published in: on 2 April 2015 at 1:42 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! Here in Boston it’s sub-Arctic outside, but I don’t care. I’ve got woolly leopard-print mitts to keep my hands toasty while I write to you. And tonight is the first performance of Bumps Upon a Grind, where I know our loving audience will cheer for us warmly.

Here’s your tip!

Use the right needle for the job.

When you’re sewing, make sure the needle you’re using is appropriate to the material. The wrong size or shape needle can really screw up your project. Today I’m going to talk about machine needles. Maybe another time I’ll hold forth about hand-sewing needles.

This is a really crummy picture I yanked off the Internets, but at least it shows some of the different kinds of machine needles.

They’re color-coded*! Isn’t that great? Orange bands are for delicate fabrics, blue bands are for medium-weight, and purple are for heavy-weight. You can also get super-light-weight (green) for those really fine sheers and super-heavy-weight (grey).

Red-topped needles are sharps for woven fabrics; yellow-topped needles are ballpoints for knits. There are also special needles for denim & canvas and for leather.

Lay in a good supply of the kind you use most because there is nothing more frustrating than breaking your last needle and seeing the project come to a grinding halt. You might be tempted to use one of the other types or sizes you have, but resist!

M2
* This is the Singer color-code. Other brands of needles have different coding. I have a vintage Singer machine, so those are the needles I use. Singer surely doesn’t pay me to endorse their brand…

Published in: on 6 February 2015 at 12:16 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

It’s National Sewing Month! (or at least so Red Snapper tells me…)

Here’s a Sewing Friday Tip!

Use a Post-It as a sewing guide for large seams

Most sewing machines have stitch guides on the throat plate at 1/8″ increments, but they are only the width of the plate. My machine only has marks up to 6/8″, but I sometimes need to sew wider seams that that.

Measure out from the needle and put a Post-It down at the desired distance. I set it so the near edge of the paper (where the sticky stuff is) is the guide. Make sure it’s straight!

Here’s my machine set up for an inch and a half seam.

Of course, you can also use other low-tack sticky items, like masking tape or painters tape to create your temporary guide. I always have Post-Its on my desk (in a very attractive holder, I might add) in my sewing room, so that’s what I grab.

Happy sewing!

M2

Published in: on 12 September 2014 at 11:15 am  Leave a Comment  
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Pasties!

Dear Constant Reader,

We’re about to leave for our little Rust Belt tour (Susquehanna, PA, Cleveland, OH, and Pittsburgh, PA) and that means making sure we’re stocked up on merch. We were totally wiped out of pasties after our show in Portsmouth, so I made some more.

Ta da!

The sequins are hand-sewn, the tassels are tested for twirlability, and all pasties are lined with comfy ultrasuede.

The yellow ones with the pink sequins, by the way, are a genuine remnant of Betty’s over-the-top banana dance costume from A (Re)Movable Feast. They should probably be sitting next to the banana-patterned ones…

M2

Published in: on 29 July 2014 at 11:25 am  Leave a Comment  
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Small Steps

Dear Constant Reader,

First of all, happy anniversary! I’ve been sending you letters for 3 years now! Well, my first missive was 3 years ago yesterday, but who’s counting?

I bet you thought I had forgotten all about my 1933 evening gown. Not so! I’ve just been horrifically busy. I managed to carve out a little time to get this gown started.


Here you see the bodice all cut out. What’s with the hideous green fabric? Before I cut my lovely silk, I want to make sure everything fits properly. I learned my lesson with the Fit & Flair dress! The fabric, by the way, is left over from a Tinkerbell costume from many, many years ago.

Hopefully soon, I’ll baste them all together and we’ll see if the pattern needs tweaking. I’ll probably add some shortened versions of the skirts too.


This is my lovely fabric from Dharma Trading. Those neatly folded piles are silk charmeuse for the gown and habatoi for the lining. I’ll be turning them silver grey with the dye in the jar. The bottle is a textile detergent for both pre- and post-dye washing. Wish me luck! It’s been a while since I dyed silk.

M2

Published in: on 14 July 2014 at 2:16 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Frantically Costuming

Dear Constant Reader,

This past weekend was the biggest event in burlesque, The Burlesque Hall of Fame Weekend (aka BHoF) in Las Vegas. Scratch usually puts in an appearance and plays in the poker tournament while I stay home and have a good time sewing something frivolous.

This year Scratch wasn’t able to go, due to some communication problems. I still spent much of the time sewing away, but it was far from frivolous.

Our summer tour of Madame Burlesqueis going to require that any 3 dancers be able to perform in the trios and duets. We’ve tried to make as many costumes wearable by as many people as possible (like an adjustable skirt that fits all dancers who know the #1 part in the duet), but sometimes that’s not possible.

devora as gypsyLast time we did this show, Devora did a Gypsy Rose Lee tribute and there are no changes to her costume. Yay!. Except she won’t be in all the shows and Scratch feels the act is important to the theme. So, I’ll be doing it when she’s not available. What can I wear? Hat, gloves, parasol are all fine. The skirt is somewhat adjustable and works fine. I have my own corset & garter belt. That leaves the bra. You might have noticed that D.D. and I don’t have a similar sized bust…

Here’s a crummy photo of my Friday night project. Fortunately, this came together pretty quickly. And matching fabric existed.

Also accomplished were a pair of tear-away undies, a new hip belt, and making a fringe skirt stripable. And now I’m onto the tedious project of making 6 matching bras. 4 of which have to be finished by our first show, which is in 10 days. And there’s even more to do. Fortunately, I’m not the only person working on all this. Marion of Vixen’s Ahoy did some, Heather, our production assistant is also an able seamstress, Devora is doing some hand-work, Betty, of course, is working away on several items, and Scratch has projects of his own.

Lest you think I spent the whole weekend toiling away on costumes, I also finished off these knitted wristlets, to fill the gap between glove and coat. Of course, I don’t need them until winter. I hope. You never know with New England. Alas, I never did get to the mock-up of the 1933 Evening Gown.

Back to the sewing room!

M2

Published in: on 10 June 2014 at 11:38 am  Leave a Comment  
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