Fit & Flair Progress (sort of)

Dear Constant Reader,

I bet you’ve been wondering what happened to my Fit & Flair dress! When last we left our heroine, she just had to tack down the neck facing and hem the skirt. Well, and then I had to take in the darts in the back even more because the bodice was bagging on me.

The hemming was a bit of a pain. Well, the hemming itself was perfectly fine, if tedious. It was making sure the full circle skirt was even all ’round. My Little Friend has a hem marker, but I’ll be damned if I can figure it out. I ended up using an unglamourous measuring tape, but it did come out nice and even.


Ta da!

Look, I even made a cute belt. True confession: it was supposed to have a buckle, but I forgot to add enough extra fabric, so it snaps instead. And I have a vintage brooch to add some interest like a faux buckle. And there was a plan (and material) for a pink crinoline.

But I’m not happy with the dress. In fact, I’m down right frustrated. It doesn’t fit well. The skirt is great but the bodice hangs badly off my shoulders. If you look at the picture, you can sort of see how the neckline is standing away from the mannequin’s body and you can see her camisole straps showing. It’s even worse on me.

Before you ask, no, I didn’t make a mock-up before I began. I’ve never had any problems with Folkwear patterns before. Butterick is another story…

I have no idea how to adjust the fit. It’s the sleeves that are the problem. They are cut in one piece with the bodice so there’s no armscye (or anything) to adjust. And I really don’t want to make adjustments to the center front as I did all that tricky pattern matching. I had Marion Hunt of Vixens Ahoy and Mimi Mischief, skilled seamstresses both, take a look at it and they were pretty baffled.

My only recourse may be to make a new bodice, from a different pattern, and mate it with the skirt. I suppose I could take off the bodice and add a waistband to the skirt and have it stand alone.

I’m very disappointed.

Grumpily yours,
M2

Published in: on 13 March 2014 at 10:20 am  Leave a Comment  
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New Costume

Dear Constant Reader,

I love costumes. One of my favorite things about burlesque is that I get to indulge in making fabulous costumes. By the way, today happens to be the birthday of two women who taught me a great deal about costuming. Happy birthday, Heather & Rae!

I also love burlesque history and have occasional bought costumes or accessories that have belonged to someone notable (to date that’s been current performers/costumers). But I won’t just pack them away to be admired — I wear them on stage. It wars with my museum training, but these costumes deserve to be seen as they were intended, on stage. But I treat them with the utmost of care and document any alterations I do.

Scratch had found these Hedy Jo Star costumes for sale on-line and when he saw that the owner lived in Massachusetts, asked if we could display them at The Expo. Maybe she’d get a buyer…

And she did:

The costume has six components:

bra

pantie

collar

gauntlets

skirt detail

fan (there are 2)

Despite being in great shape, it’s not completely ready to wear. There are a lot of small wear & tear repairs to be made. All of the elastic (especially on the bra) needs to be replaced. While the skirt fits perfectly around my waist, I can’t zip it over my thighs. It looks fine open in the front, but I’ll have to decide if I want to remove the metal zipper as a snagging hazard or leave it in place as part of the historical integrity. And it needs pasties and a g-string. Perhaps the pasties I bought at The Expo will work. We’ll see.

I won’t lie; this was the most expensive costume I’ve ever bought. So once my new act is ready, I’ll be looking for gigs!

The woman I bought it from can’t remember the name of the stripper she bought it from. The costume was made sometime in the 80’s and worn locally. I would love to find out the provenance, so please, if you have any leads, let me know!

M2

Published in: on 5 March 2014 at 11:29 am  Comments (5)  
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Expo 2014: The Costume Exhibit

Dear Constant Reader,

I love the Costume Exhibit at The Expo. For the past 6 years it’s been created by BettySioux Tailor and Baroness Blitzen von Schtupp and always amazes me. This year the theme was “In Love with Burlesque”, so there were hearts everywhere and the costume labels has answers to the questions “When did you fall in love with burlesque?” or “What do you love about burlesque?”.

My camera, of course, chose this time to have one of its hissy fits and not allow the flash to work. Some of the pictures are a tad blurred. Sorry about that. I really need a new camera.


From L to R: Madeline Sinclaire (I believe this is a vintage gown, but the rest was made by her), Angie Pontani, April March, Blaze (“Sparkling Diamonds” and “Pink Diamonds” — two Moulin Rouge reproductions)


After April March and Blaze, we have Femme Brûlée, Me (my “La Vie en Rose” costume), Scarlett Letter (“Love for Sale”, which she had worn in The Rhinestone Revue), and a boudoir robe by Catherine D’Lish (owned by me)


Hedy Jo Star (Cleopatra headress, Bob Mackie/Cher-inspired costume, and peacock costume — Scratch was able to get these on loan for the weekend, but the collection has since been split up), Pat Manzo (from the same source), BettySioux Tailor (“Friendly Conversation”, worn in The Rhinestone Revue). On the table is a scrapbook of Gypsy Rose Lee photos and clippings, compiled by one of her close friends and given to Willy Barrett.

You can see most of the individual costumes and a tiny bit more information here.

M2

Published in: on 27 February 2014 at 11:30 am  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! This week’s tip was inspired by recent personal experience.

Don’t bobble your buttons; make your removes a snap!

Cute, no?

I love a good button tease. Slowly slipping a little button out of its snug hole, gliding the fingers down to the next one, all the while eyes are on the audience… Lovely.

However, if those buttons are devilish, don’t fumble around. Replace them with snaps. Well, don’t *replace* the buttons, because they are a lovely detail and make your garment look finished. Hide the snaps under them. This will mean that your garment now opens the opposite way, so be aware of that.

And don’t forget my previous tip about positioning snaps!

I was rehearsing an act for the Halloween show at the Landsdowne Pub on Tuesday which involves a prim blouse with a ton of buttons down the front in sets of three. Here’s the catch: only the middle button of the three is a fastener. It was making me crazy trying to unfasten the correct button smoothly and without looking. Snaps it is!

But to make the blouse look right, I couldn’t just sew snaps under the buttons, because of those decorative buttons flanking each buttonhole. I had to remove the “real” button and sew it on top of the buttonhole between the other two and then sew on the snaps. I think it came out pretty well.

Here it is being modeled by My Little Friend. I don’t think it’s obvious that those buttons are now faux. Decide for yourself when you see it in action on Tuesday night.

M2

Published in: on 25 October 2013 at 10:25 am  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

As we get closer to Halloween, here’s a tip that’s applicable all year ’round, but especially now.

Consider very strongly before investing in an all-black costume.

We all love black. It’s sexy, slimming, and mysterious. However, details and contrast are often lost. Backdrops in venues are frequently black, making you vanish into the curtain. Also, because there’s low contrast, your gloved hand is going to be invisible against your gown, making your come hither gestures also invisible.

Here’s an illustration:
champagne on ice
Can you see my black stocking against the black curtains in the background? Yeah, me neither.

Combine black with accent colors and your costume will be more versatile and visible.

M2

Published in: on 18 October 2013 at 10:31 am  Leave a Comment  
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More Costuming

Dear Constant Reader,

I spent part of yesterday turning this:

into another costume piece for The Wrathskellar.

The result was thus:

Ta da! My hooping outfit. It will look much better in action. My Little Friend is good for most fitting work, but she’s not great for display. For one thing, her boobs don’t push up like the bra wants them to. And, at the moment, everything is just pinned to her. I’ll actually need some snaps & hooks, since I’m not so keen on straight pins in my flesh.

I’m going to have to take a hiatus from the Fit & Flair project, which is a shame because it is so close to finished. At the left, you can see the neck facing sewn on, but not yet turned to the inside and tacked down. That’s since been done. And the sleeves are hemmed (by hand, of course). Technically all that’s left to do is hem the skirt. The dress wants to hang for a little before measuring the hem, but given my schedule, I think it’s going to hang for a good long while before I get to it.

But that wouldn’t make a very finished outfit. I want to make a wide belt. I have the fabric, but I haven’t found a buckle I like yet. Also, I think it really wants a crinoline.

Here’s the dress in its almost finished state.

I think it will be staying this way until at least October…

M2

Published in: on 27 August 2013 at 10:11 am  Leave a Comment  
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Costuming The Wrathskellar

Dear Constant Reader,

Work on The Wrathskellar is in full swing. Yes, we’re actually calling it The W. R. Athskellar Cavalcade of Curiosities this year, but The Wrathskellar is so much faster to write.

The main thing we Babydolls are concentrating on right now are our choreographies and that means we need to know what our costumes are. Part of rehearsal last night was spent rummaging through our costume collection to choose pieces and figure out what needs to be created. One of the challenges for this show is that it’s entirely in greyscale. All costumes have to be black, white, shades of grey, or silver.

We’ve got a few pictures up in this Facebook album: W. R. Ehearsal, Aug 25. We’re planning to be better about documenting some of our rehearsal/backstage process.

I’m making both of my costumes. This weekend was spent buying most of the fabric and starting construction. This is going to be the top for my hooping act.

The main fabric is black with silver embroidery, cutwork, and rhinestones. Note the cool selvedge treatment. The white satin is for the lining and will show through the cut-outs. I discovered *after* I sewed the whole thing that only one of the selvedges had rhinestones on it. Oh no, I have to add more rhinestones!

Today I make the skirt and maybe tomorrow you’ll even get a peek at the whole thing together.

M2

Published in: on 26 August 2013 at 11:50 am  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

I just realized that last Friday was a momentous occasion — the 100th Friday Tip!

Here’s the start of the second century…

Rehearse with your costume as soon as possible.

Burlesque is *so* costume-dependent. Your choreography may have to change because of your costume or vice versa. It might turn out to be completely impossible to unzip your dress in the time you allotted when you first created the dance.

“Air clothing” comes off so much more easily and smoothly than the real thing. If your costume isn’t ready for rehearsal, it’s better to use a substitute garment that’s going to behave similarly (“stunt clothing”, we call it) than pantomime.

And rehearse with as much of the costume as you can. If the sequins on your skirt keep getting caught on your fishnets, you’ll have time to make adjustments, instead of finding out there’s a problem when you’re on stage.

M2

Published in: on 16 August 2013 at 10:06 am  Leave a Comment  
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Last Ohio Burlesque Festival Note

Dear Constant Reader,

I realized I talked a lot about our new costumes for the act we brought to The Ohio Burlesque Festival and only teased you about showing pictures someday. That day is now.

Thanks to Eric Paul Owens for taking these shots.
Ohio Burlesque Festival 2013 - EPO
The opening. The camera has caught me just as I’ve turned (see how my skirt is still swirling) and am in the process of getting into the same pose as the other 3. The round things we’re holding which are covered in a curly fake fur are the “poodle paddles”. Similarly, we’re wearing “poodle hats”.

Ohio Burlesque Festival 2013 5 - EPO
And here you can see the black & white/white & black bras on Stella and Devora. In another few seconds, you would have seen that Betty and I had the same configuration.

We’re planning to do the act again at “Boston Loves Dixie!” on the 31st, so you can see us in all our black & white, poodle glory!

M2

Published in: on 13 August 2013 at 11:54 am  Leave a Comment  
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Getting Ready

Dear Constant Reader,

On Thursday we hop in the trusty Babydollmobile and head West to the Ohio Burlesque Festival. We’re presenting a practically new number. It has the same concept and music as one we did in V for Vixen, but the costumes, choreography, and number of dancers is totally different.

We’ve got a black & white theme for the costumes. Betty & Stella have dresses that are black with white polka dots while Devora and mine are white with black polka dots. Our belts are of the contrasting fabric.

So the plans was that we’d have similarly contrasting bras. One cup would be covered with white fabric and the other side with black. And which cups would depend on who was wearing them. And then the black side would get a white strap and the band would be white and vice versa for the other side

We decided on white bras because we could turn white fabric black more easily that the reverse (with a Sharpie, if necessary. I share our glamourous costuming secrets!) We’re lucky enough to have an odd-lots store nearby where we can get bras inexpensively. Unfortunately Stella is a size that’s hard-to-find and we couldn’t find a bra in that same style the rest of us were using and the one that was picked out for her was unflattering and fit poorly.

On the drive to Johnstown I covered bras for me and D.D. while Betty did her own. Friday Scratch bought a number of bras for Stella to try — all of them black. I realized 3 white bras and 1 black bra would make us crazy, so we ran out and bought a black bra for Betty.

Saturday, I covered the new bra for Betty and on Sunday, Stella picked the glass slipper of a bra and Betty covered it right at rehearsal. Then we all attached trim to the bras. Well, Devora is sewing Stella’s.

The bras still need some rhinestones, but they’re looking pretty good. We were able to do the black/white contrasting straps (yay for removable bra straps!), but we’ve (temporarily?) punted the contrasting bands. We haven’t been able to come up with a way to do it that would be both quick and easy and probably be able to be done in a car.

If I’d been clever, I would have taken pictures, but you can wait for the results from Cleveland, right?

M2

P.S. We’ll be appearing at the opening of the Carrie Nation Cocktail Club tonight!

Published in: on 29 July 2013 at 11:23 am  Leave a Comment  
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