Friday Tip

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! Here’s your tip!

Check your elastic before you sew with it.

Old elastic loses its, well, elasticity. Check your stash and make sure nothing has gotten crunchy or stretched out. If so, you should toss it. Get some fresh elastic so your garment has a long, useful life after you’ve gone to all the work of sewing it.

If this happens with a costume piece or even regular clothing, see if you can replace the elastic without completely deconstructing the item. If it has a casing, that makes an easy fix.

I make my g-strings in such a way that the elastic is incredibly easy to remove and replace (like 5 minutes easy). You too can learn how from my Little Costuming Book or Patreon-exclusive tutorial.

M2These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 19 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

Published in: on 14 March 2025 at 4:23 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! It’s so windy here at The Manor. It makes me terribly sympathetic to my Australian friends expecting Cyclone Alfred. Stay safe!

I’m currently testing a pattern for a designer and it made me think of this tip:

When working with interfacing, whether it’s fusible or not, make sure you catch it in the seam stitching to secure it, then trim away any excess to reduce bulk before you press the seam.

M2These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 19 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

Published in: on 7 March 2025 at 4:36 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday before Halloween!

Tomorrow we are at House of Hatchets in Hyannis. Wear your Halloween finery! Get tickets here!

On November 7th guest instructor Gaea Lady will be teaching a weighted veil workshop at B.A.B.E.!What is a weighted veil? Watch this…

Wouldn’t you like to learn to do that…? If you’re on our mailing list, you’ve got a discount code for the workshop (and if you’re not, sign up). 

Here’s your tip!

To customize your costumes, Frankenstein your sewing patterns.

I’m not talking about digging them up from graveyards in the dead of night — I mean stitching different parts together. If you’ve got a pattern for a gown with a neckline you like, but the sleeves aren’t doing it for you, take the sleeves from a different pattern.

You do want to make sure that wherever you are grafting pieces together, that they fit together correctly. Check that the piece on the donor pattern is the same size and shape when it’s going to join the garment as the one you’re replacing before before you cut anything. You might have to do a little cosmetic surgery to adjust one or the other. This is especially important with sleeveheads and armscyes — you want those curves to match.

M2These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 19 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

Published in: on 25 October 2024 at 4:49 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Halloween Under Bits

Dear Constant Reader,

This past Saturday was our first Halloween show. I may write about it in more detail later — this is just to show you my new shiny bits.

Last year, after a planned act failed to come together, I swapped in “Moon Over Bourbon Street”, a rather pretentious fan dance, a few days before the show. At the last minute, I realized I could reinforce the vampire theme with a pair of bat pasties. They were literally made the night before and, while they were cute, I wasn’t happy with them. They were too big and the minimal rhinestoning didn’t pop at all.

This year I planned ahead and made new bat pasties, using a template from Manuge et Toi.
Bat pasties
The rhinestones are mostly from Looking Glass Gems, with some black diamond Swarovskis Scratch had in his stash.

Next up, I needed a new g-string for “Satanic Panic” as the one I had been using was going to be appearing in “Bourbon Street”. I wanted it to be flame-themed to match the pasties* I had made for the act’s debut. I decided to challenge myself and make the g-string flame-shaped as well as colored.

Flame pasties & g-string

That g-string is heavy! I’m not sure I’ve ever stoned a garment other than pasties that solidly before. Fortunately, it stays in place pretty securely. I’m pretty pleased with how it came out. The photo really doesn’t do the colors justice, especially the shifting shades of the phoenix rhinestones (the orange-ish stones).

As with the bats, the majority of the rhinestones are from Looking Glass Gems, except the citrine on the pasties which are Swarovski.

While I was working on the g-string, and really feeling on a roll, I went to visit my parents. I wanted to keep working, but my bottle of glue was too big to take on the plane. I grabbed one of my TSA-compliant toiletry containers and dumped in a hefty glop of Jewel Bond. Rhinestoning on a plane is a bit challenging, but at least I (and probably my seatmate) was entertained.

M2These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 19 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

*Although Manuge et Toi now has a flame pastie template, these pasties were made about a year before it was released. It would have made my life so much easier and my pastie design so much cleaner.

Published in: on 10 October 2024 at 3:35 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip

Dear Constant Reader,

It’s Friday! I almost forgot what day it was. I took this week off from work and teaching and other responsibilities and I totally lost track of time. Let’s see if I can come up with a tip for you…

When prewashing fabric you think is going to fray a lot, seam the two raw edges together with a zigzag stitch.

After the fabric has been washed and dried, cut off the stitching (preferably along a grainline for a clean, straight line) and press like usual.

Yes, you could zigzag each end separately, but doing it this way also keeps the fabric from twisting and knotting up on itself while tumbling around in the machines. That’s like two tips in one!

Have a great Labor Day weekend, everyone*!

M2These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 19 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

*In the US. The rest of you celebrated months ago.

Published in: on 30 August 2024 at 3:43 pm  Leave a Comment  
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From ABC to BHoF: Honoring Kitten Natividad

Dear Constant Reader,

In April the American Burlesque Collection was contacted by the Burlesque Hall of Fame about a loan for their new exhibit Let’s Get Loud! The Heritage of Latin Burlesque. They needed something to represent Kitten Natividad and ABC has one of her costumes, among other items which were featured in the 2021 exhibit, ¡Viva Estriptís!. The costume was made by Sue Nice for Kitten’s Australian tour. Kitten sold the costume to Lili VonSchtupp, who wore it for her Jack of Hearts photo in The Burlesque Deck. From Lili, it came to ABC.

We were happy to honor Kitten in this way. The catch was that the exhibit was opening within days of the request. They would need the costume right away.

Now, if you or I want to lend something we own to someone we know, it’s easy. We just do it. Maybe there’s a little conversation about who’s going to pick it up or when the thing needs to be returned, but there aren’t a lot of details and the ones that do pop up can usually be settled with a quick text. Things are very different when the loan is from one museum to another.

Every museum has their own version of a “standard” agreement. And, as you can guess, none of them are the same! The loan agreements cover every detail: insurance, shipping, mounting and display, security, how the loaning institution is to be acknowledged…down to minutiae like the lighting and humidity. It took a long time of back and forth until there was an agreement both museums found acceptable. It took weeks and weeks before it was settled and in the meantime the exhibit had opened to the public.

After the agreement was signed, Scratch prepared a Condition Report, which recorded the condition of each item at the time it left A.B.C.’s custody. The condition report includes photos and notes on any pre-existing damage like missing rhinestones, loose threads, or stains.

Muslin envelopesThen we had to get it there in the same shape it left our care. We knew we wanted to individually package each of the six elements of the costume before putting them all in the shipping box. I created some envelopes out of unbleached muslin. It’s lightweight, breathable, and doesn’t have any dyes or chemical treatment which might affect the costume. Some of the costume pieces could be folded mostly flat without risk of damage, but if you know Kitten, you can figure out which items had to be shipped with padding inside them to keep them from being crushed. Then each element was wrapped in acid-free tissue and slipped into its own custom envelope.

Scratch packed it all in a box, and then packed that box securely in another box before shipping the costume off. We breathed a little easier when word came that it had been received safe and sound. Many museums send their artifacts by courier, but we’re a touch small for that.

The costume was mounted in time for The Burlesque Hall of Fame Weekender in early June.

and here it is!
View from entrance
Left side of exhibit
Right Side of Exhibit
Close up
(All exhibit photos by Scratch)

Because they had limited exhibit space, BHoF decided only to display the robe and Scratch hand-carried the other pieces back with him.

Let’s Get Loud! The Heritage of Latin Burlesque runs until October. If you get the chance to see it, I want to hear all about it!

M2

 

(with input from Scratch)

 

 

 

These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 20 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

Published in: on 19 August 2024 at 11:30 am  Leave a Comment  
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New Costume

Dear Constant Reader,

When we were planning our summertime show, Queens of the Jiggle, I knew I wanted to perform “Too Darn Hot” with my new fans (seen here with my chief fan inspector). New fansAnd new fans deserve a new costume.

After some discussion and brainstorming, we decided on a body harness with removable fringe. This then morphed into a frame bra and fringe belt set instead. I wanted to use as much of our existing supplies as possible, so for the base, I used some silver over black elastic in the troupe stash. Not particularly flame or heat colored, but that’s fine.

I stood very still while Scratch draped and pinned the elastic into the bra structure, then I carefully wiggled out and did all the sewing. I was able to scavenge the bra hooks, rings, and sliders from an old bra. Huzzah!

The bottom band kept shifting, but I knew how to fix it — a little trick I learned from Christina Manuge — with plastic boning. But I didn’t have any. With time getting tight, Scratch cut some strips of clear rigid plastic and drilled teensy holes into them. I filed down the corners with an emery board and sewed them into place. Perfect!

I didn’t love the look of the elastic belt after the fringe was removed and Scratch didn’t like the action of removing the belt, so I decided to incorporate the fringe into my g-string. My first thought was to make a new strappy g-string, but I went for easy. I took an existing g-string, already rhinestoned, removed its elastic (which is very easy with the style of g-string I make — see my costume book!) and added the black and silver elastic.

The pasties I had already, having made them for “Satanic Panic”, last summer.Flame pasties

That however, was the end of using what we had. I needed fringe and Scratch found the perfect stuff — yellow shading to red, just like my fans.

Once the fringe arrived I added snaps (those did come from my stash) and the costume was done! I proudly tried it out at rehearsal and discovered that the elastic was too stretchy. With the fans in my hands, I couldn’t get enough force to unsnap the fringe. Time was running out. What could I do?

Devastasia snowladyDevastasia suggested small magnets. She used them very successfully on her epic snowlady costume this past winter. (seen in rehearsal at right). Scratch ordered a whole bunch in various sizes and I got to work exchanging snaps for magnets. After a test run where I thought I had a clever idea, but physics beat me, I reconfigured the magnets. The fringe removal finally worked perfectly! Or so I thought.

The last item I had to buy was red and yellow rhinestones. Alas, the post office told me my package from Looking Glass Gems wasn’t going to arrive until after the show. So disappointing! But wait — they fortuitously came a day early and I spent part of Friday gluing stones onto the fringe and fans. Not as many as I would have liked, but at least I had some sparkle.

Once we arrived at Deacon Giles, I put the costume on and rehearsed the number. Only to discover that went I went up the front stairs to the stage, the movement dislodged the fringe from the magnets on the back of my g-string. Good to know, nothing I can do to fix it now; I’ll enter from the wings instead.

However, there are still a couple of steps up from the side of the stage, and despite climbing carefully, I still lost one of the hip swags as I was entering. Annoying. I think I’ve fixed the issue.

I’m pretty happy with how it turned out and I hope to have an opportunity to use this costume again soon!

And now that you’ve read all that, here’s your reward. Photos taken backstage by Devastasia

Costume front Costume back

I don’t love the front drape of the fringe on the g-string and I’ve since changed it.

Here’s an action shot from audience member (and fan dancer) Jenne alla Vodka:

IMG_5119

M2These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 20 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

Published in: on 13 August 2024 at 9:53 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Burly Bundle: Gloves

Dear Constant Reader,

A couple of years ago I tried out the burlesque craft subscription Burly Bundle, so I could review it. I had fun, so I ordered the next couple of boxes before Misty closed the business.

Here’s the last one, which I completed first — gloves!

The kit came with the gloves, marabou trim, rhinestones, and everything needed to affix the decorations, even needle and thread and a little measuring tape. In the past, some kits included individual colors choices, but this one had only wine red gloves, as it goes with many color combinations, and black rhinestones. I approve of the choice.

I like the rhinestone pattern — I’m not great at designing patterns and often go with a random scatter. It took a while of careful counting over several stoning sessions, but that’s what Netflix is for.rhinestones

The main line of stones are ss16. That was fine. I work with that size all the time. The little side branches are ss10. A bit smaller than usual, but still fine. However, the radiating lines are ss6! I don’t usually work with such tiny stones –, but I do think the end result was worth the fiddliness.

Another thing I don’t usually work with is feather trim. however, adding the marabou was simplicity. It’s cut to my arm circumference and sewn at just four points arounds the cuff, so no real allowances for stretch had to be made. Also, it was hard enough sewing with all that fluff in just a few places. I would have not had much fun having to completely stitch it down, while also dealing with the stretch of the glove.

feathers

Since the gloves are “one size fits most”, Misty included some stretch lace and instructions to add a decorative gusset for a wider glove top. It sounded like an easy way to add some more visual interest and I was a little sorry that it wasn’t needed on my gloves.

Here’s the final result!

glove

I’ve still got two more boxes of projects in various states of progress. I shall report back.

M2These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 20 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

Published in: on 10 July 2024 at 3:48 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! Tomorrow is Isle of Tease at Deacon Giles Speakeasy! We’ve got a whole bunch of fun tropical acts for you — some fan favorites, some brand new — and some spectacular costumes. I can’t wait to see what delicious delights the bartender whip up!

Also, Introduction to Burlesque classes start next week! Although the Early Bird discount just ended, we’re still offering our new “Bring a Friend” special — register for all 4 classes and bring a friend for half price (or get a 25% discount on two registrations, depending on how you want to look at it).

One last note, the BeauTease and B.A.B.E. both use a ticketing service called Humanitix. They’re a charity who donates profits from the ticketing fees to other charities. Earlier this week, the Meta-bots, in their infinite wisdom deemed Humanitix a cybersecurity issue and removed all events, ads, and posts with links to their site. Days before a show. Yay.

Anyway, here’s your tip:

Make a mock up.

When trying out a new pattern or design for a costume or clothing do a test version first to check the fit and try out any new techniques. I can’t recommend this enough if you’re using an expensive fabric or don’t have much to spare. Get all the dumb mistakes out on the first go-round.

The traditional material for mock ups is unbleached muslin. You can also use old bedsheets, tablecloths, or curtains from around the house or the thrift store. It’s recycling!

However, if you make your mock up from a less-precious fabric that you like, you’ll end up with a wearable garment!Mrs. Maisel dress at CC39
This is my mock up of Mrs. Maisel’s red dress (season one). I made it in black linen before trying to make it out of red silk (which I will do… someday…). I’m glad I did because parts of it were very fiddly and I had to redo the skirt a couple of times. Linen is much more forgiving than silk when you need to rip out stitches and resew.

M2These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 20 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

Published in: on 17 May 2024 at 2:53 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! Here’s your tip:

Make sure your jewelry and your act are compatible.

I don’t just mean that the jewelry coordinates with your costume. Rhinestone jewelry is notoriously catchy; check that you aren’t going to snag delicate fabrics on the settings (I have a tip that can help!). Can you wear bracelets with your gloves and still do a smooth peel? Does your necklace look good with the different necklines of your costume layers? Do your earrings get tangled in your hair after some vigorous floorwork? Try it all out in advance and you’ll look polished on stage.

M2These writings and other creative projects are supported by my 19 Patrons. Thank you so much! To become a Patron, go to my Patreon page. Or you can just tip me if you liked this.

Published in: on 19 April 2024 at 5:04 pm  Leave a Comment  
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