Dear Constant Reader,
It’s Friday again! Before I present your tip, a few announcements.
The Great Burlesque Expo was supposed to start today, but it’s been postponed until September. Tomorrow (Saturday the 18th) Expo staff, participants, and fans will be having an on-line get-together and you are welcome! Go to the Facebook event for more information.
I’m teaching a short burlesque lesson every Wednesday at 3pm on Instagram Live at @studyburlesque. If you miss it live, I’ll be posting the video to IGTV and YouTube.
And now for your tip!
Marking pens are a great addition to your costuming tools.
Just to be clear, these aren’t markers. They are special pens for marking fabric and the marks will disappear. They don’t brush away like chalk, so I use them on all but the darkest fabrics. Besides outlining your pattern pieces and making any sewing notations you need on the fabric, you can also use them to draw embroidery designs and mark locations of embellishments. The marks are just temporary — if you don’t like what you came up with, remove and try again!
There are two types of pens. Blue pens need to have their marks removed with water. I keep a little spritz bottle of water in my sewing room for just that purpose. Or just toss your garment n the wash. Purple pens are temporary — they’ll disappear on their own after about 25 hours. Less if it’s humid out. These marks can be helped along with water like their blue brethren. If marks don’t come out right away, just wet the again. you can also get fine point pens for delicate work.
A couple of caveats. Don’t iron directly on the marks — the ink can scorch and set, leaving a brown line on your fabric. I had a bad result rhinestoning on top of a purple marker line — the glue dried over the mark and it won’t wash out, protected by the glue.
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Booty Lab by Michelle L’amour (2013).
The Night They Raided Minsky’s, directed by William Friedkin, MGM, 1968.
Try solid lotion.
Potato Kugel
Instead of cutting all the masks to size, cut or tear your fabric at 12” lengths, fold over with right sides together, and sew the long seam (1/4” seam allowance) creating a tube. (If you’re using different fabrics for front and back, this works as well. Just cut the pieces a smidge larger and sew along both long edges.) Flip the fabric and press the seams flat. You should have a long tube about 6” wide.
Cut tube in 9” segments.
You will end up with several mask rectangles that are open on both ends.
Fold both ends inside about a half inch, press flat.
Once your pleats are ironed, you should be ready to sew without needing pins.
Insert one end of a 7” piece of elastic at the top corner and sew down. Double stitch for strength.
Begin to sew the pleats down, inserting the other elastic end at the bottom corner as you go. Double stitch at the corner.
Start the next mask immediately, with no space. Repeat the process above with next mask
You can do as many masks in a chain as you’re comfortable with.

Krupnicas