Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

As your read this, I’m on my way to the Windy City Burlesque Festival where I’ll be teaching 3 costuming classes on Saturday. If you want to learn all about corsetry, costume care, or closures, I’m your gal. I hope to see you there!

Here’s a little tidbit from one of my classes:

If you’re going invest in a corset, make sure it fits you!

A properly fitted corset should be comfortable and supportive. It should feel like you’re being hugged, not squeezed. You should be able to walk and breathe normally. The lacing should be secure, but not digging into your back and you should be able to leave a gap of a couple of inches. Bones shouldn’t poke you at all. Take the time to have a fitting before buying. If you’re making your own, do a mock-up first, bones and all. You’ll look and feel fabulous!

M2Like this tip? There are lots more in Miss Mina Murray’s Little Book of Better Burlesque.

Published in: on 24 June 2016 at 11:00 am  Leave a Comment  
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The Faerie Queene: Part the Last (for now)

Dear Constant Reader,

I’ve been writing about the evolution of my act, The Faerie Queene this week. You can read about the origins, the first iteration, and the revamp.

The act still needed work. March was “Nose to the Rhinestone” month for me and I started poking around at some of these issues.

Between balancing the headdress and trying to see out of the mask, I kept lowering my head, which is not a good look at all. Also, the mask was cheap looking compared to the rest of the costume and it hid almost all of my face, making it hard for me to project any emotion.

I started searching for a new mask and found a number of gold butterfly-shaped options. The one I bought is brass and even had a couple of gems on it. I discovered to my delight that Jewel Bond (a white rhinestone glue) worked just as well as E-6000 on metal without all the toxic fumes (I was always reluctant to use that poison, but now I don’t want to expose Albert’s little lungs) and added some purple rhinestones.

The new mask has much bigger eye holes, so I decided to take advantage and get some new eye makeup. With the old mask I couldn’t even wear lashes. I got a custom eyeshadow palette from Atomic Cosmetics with 3 shades of purple and a gold. I also picked up some deep purple glitter (I already had gold) and Dr. Jen threw in some fabulous white glitter that reflects purple.

Scratch pointed out how static the act was, especially during the fan dance. I’d just plant and gesture. Boring. He suggested that since the music was for dances I knew, how about incorporating some of the steps? Sadly, I discovered that galliard, salterello, and canarie steps are really hard to do in ballroom heels. However, I could do a piva step, but I couldn’t do it with my headdress on. A new headpiece would be great, but I just couldn’t visualize it. I kept trying to work with the one I had.

In frustration, one rehearsal, I fumed “I can galliard in a farthengale while wearing a French hood! Why can’t I…” Oh. Brain storm.

As sad as I was to set Whisper’s headdress aside (I’ll find another act for it — it’s too lovely to languish), I was excited to create a new piece. It had been a while since I’d done any millinery (I think my last project was the silk top hat I made for “Mackie Messer”). I made a French hood base and covered it in printed purple velvet. Scratch designed a twiggy crown with leaves and flowers of metal and I did my best to bring it to life.

He painted some twigs with a variety of metallic paints and I attached them to the crescent, then added a bunch of flower, leaf and butterfly charms and a few Swarovski butterfly beads. Instead of the traditional black hood, I stitched an array of colored organza ribbons to the back of the crescent. The entire thing is edged-beaded with gold Swarovski pearls (in Renaissance terms, a billiment). I’m so happy with how it turned out.

While in Los Angeles in February I bought a long red wig. It wasn’t cheap, but it looks great. It’s probably the best fitting wig I’ve ever worn.

As well as Cassie’s fan had served me, it was starting to soften around the edges. It was time for a new one, made out of more durable material. I had decided wood would work nicely after Brigitte brought me back a wooden fan from Spain. I certainly didn’t want to try cutting over 2 dozen staves myself, even out of something soft, like basswood. I went to danger!awesome and they laser-cut new staves out of birch veneer.

My student Devastasia is a talented artist (she’s the one who made The Lost Girl’s dollhouse so beautiful and creepy) and I asked her if she would paint the new fan. My biggest challenge was stringing the staves together. I had the original fan to copy and Cassie gave me a little advice, but for the first try I definitely used the wrong thread. It was only after Devastasia finished the painting that I figured out the right stuff. It was a remarkable pain to redo, I must say, but it was worth the effort. The fan looks beautiful now and it’s much sturdier and lighter.

I also wanted new pasties — butterflies that actually look like butterflies. I used wee lace butterflies and embellished them, which turned out lovely. However, even using skin-tone pastie bases, they looked like lace butterflies sewn to pasties, not like butterflies just perched on my nips. After a few attempts, I figured out a trick…

I’ve only performed the new act in public twice and I don’t have any performance photos yet. The best I can do for now is this backstage selfie:

What’s next for the act? Keep practicing, keep performing, keep improving. I might tweak the music, but other than that, I think this version is the one (famous last words…) I’m planning to submit it to the New York Burlesque Festival, so keep your fingers crossed for me!

M2

Published in: on 9 June 2016 at 3:36 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! Here’s your tip!

When making pants tear-away, start with a pair that is at least one size larger than usual.

The easiest way to make tear-away pants is to cut open the outside seam and add snap tape (we’ve used velcro and don’t like it). However, the creates an overlap and thus reduces the size of the pant leg. Your leg is going to create pressure on the snaps if the pants are too tight and you’re at risk of premature poppage.

The picture to the right shows Brigitte and me in our “Factory Girls” overalls. Because I’m leaning over and putting some tension on the fabric, you can see the line of snap tape at the overlap. It would have been better if those overalls were maybe one size bigger, but they were originally made for someone other than me.

You can always make pants fit better with a larger overlap at the waistband. We like to use a whopper popper at the top to keep everything nice & secure and then release them right before the tearaway.

M2Like this tip? There are lots more in Miss Mina Murray’s Little Book of Better Burlesque.

Published in: on 25 March 2016 at 2:15 pm  Leave a Comment  
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The Expo: Costume Exhibit and The Atheneum

Dear Constant Reader,

Here we have two of my favorite things, costumes and books.

The costumes…

Ever since The Expo moved to Cambridge we’ve had a costume exhibit, ably curated by BettySioux Tailor, with the assistance of Baroness Blitzen von Schtupp for the last last *eight* years. As always, there was some fantastic stuff!

From L to R (top row and then bottom row): Scarlett Letter, Dita Von Tease, Miss Mina Murray, Hedy Jo Star (pink), Hedy Jo Star (green), Jacqueline Hyde, Dangrrr Doll, Red Hot Annie, Sailor St. Claire, Matt Finish, Scarlett O’Hairdye, Raven Roland, Angie Pontani.

The two Hedy Jo Star costumes were gifted to The Expo from a costumer working in Tokyo who found them in the storage room of her theatre company. We have no idea how they got there or who wore them, but pink one has the name “Nancy Lee” written inside. Any thoughts? Pictures can not do these pieces justice. I hope you got a chance to see them close up.


We also had an exhibit in memory of Blaze Starr, who passed away over the summer. It included several photographs (two with Boston connections!), video of a couple of her film appearances, the costume Angie Pontani wore for her tribute to the Legend at Miss Exotic World 2006, and Blaze’s own powder puff and hand-made red evening bag with a handwritten note.

And the books…

The Atheneum was a new addition this year. Librarian Jennie put together a collection of relevant books and magazines in the breakfast/tea party room for people to browse during the day. Counterpoint Press was good enough to donate Leslie Zemeckis’s Goddess of Love Incarnate and Margo Christie sent her novel, These Days. Other books came from the Library at Stately Babydoll Manor and from Jennie’s own collection.

I have a collection of “Cavalcade of Burlesque”, an industry magazine published in the early 1950’s by burlesque agent Jess Mack. They’re valuable documents for our community and I wanted to share them, but as you might expect from 65-year-old pulp paper, they’re rather fragile. So, I carefully scanned all my issues page by page and had them printed them up to be as close to the original as possible. I’m so happy to share this bit of history while keeping the originals preserved! (By the way, I’m on the look-out for the May 1953, March 1954, and May 1954 issues…)

I certainly hope The Expo continues to offer The Atheneum and it becomes a bigger and better resource.

Up next, shopping!

M2

Published in: on 2 March 2016 at 3:32 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday and happy October!

Today’s tip comes from Scratch. We’re about to open a big show with a lot of costume changes (that would be The Wrathskellar — do you have tickets yet?) and we needed a way for our Wardrobe Mistresses to keep track of all the costumes and get every costume piece reunited properly when they are cleaned up after the act.

Put a tag on a hanger listing all the costume pieces for an act.

Each act got an index card. The performer wrote on it their character name, the act name, and listed each costume element that went on the hanger. Things like shoes and pasties don’t live on a hanger, so they didn’t have to get written down.

After reinforcing the corner of the card with a piece of tape, we punched a hole in it and threaded a rubber band through. The rubber band went over the hook of the hanger. Any small items, like gloves or panties, were attached to the hanger with binder clips.

Once we get to the theatre (Sunday!), we’ll hang everything up in run order and it should be super-simple to maintain all the costumes.

You can do this for storing your costumes as well, if you’re lucky enough to have enough space to hang them all up. The costume closet in my atelier is too small, alas.

M2

Published in: on 2 October 2015 at 11:18 am  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! The weather is getting noticeably cooler & drier here in New England. While lower humidity means less hair frizz, it means more static. Here’s your tip:

To remove static cling, rub a wire hanger on your garment.

It’s simple science; the metal in the hanger discharges the static. There actually is a use for wire hangers! Just don’t keep your costumes on them…

M2

Published in: on 25 September 2015 at 11:15 am  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! I’m delighted to be in Chicago for the Windy City Burlesque Festival. Tomorrow morning I’ll be teaching a class all about corsetry. I thought I’d give you a little teaser for your Friday Tip.

When unfastening a corset, start at the top and work down. Or start at the bottom and work up. Just don’t change directions in the middle.

The middle clasp is often the hardest to unfasten, because there is the most pressure on it. Leaving it for last puts even more pressure on it. This can cause your busk to bend, which can wreck your corset. Make sure your lacings are nice and loose, especially at your waist, before you start to unfasten. Don’t give up on that middle clasp, it gets easier after you’ve got it undone.

Want to know more about how to wear and remove corsets? Come to Getting Tight: A Guide to Corsetry at 11am on Saturday at the Windy City Burlesque Festival!

M2

Published in: on 12 June 2015 at 11:21 am  Leave a Comment  
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Costume-Con 33

Dear Constant Reader,

I know I’m very late with this missive, but I also know you forgive me.

A couple of weeks ago I ventured to lovely Charleston, South Carolina for Costume-Con, the annual gathering of the International Costumers Guild and a mecca for all things costume-y. You might remember that I attended last year in Toronto.

Last year I was solo, but this year I was part of a group of fabulously talented costumers, putting together an entry for the Historical Masquerade. It’s a particularly challenging competition and we only added to the difficulty by living far enough apart that the first time all nine members of the group were together was Friday night. I never thought I’d say this, but thank goodness for Facebook — it’s how we communicated and shared our progress. More about our specific costumes later.

The first costume-related event of the weekend was an unofficial one. A couple of us grabbed our mermaid tails (or monofins, depending on the progress of building said tail) and went down to the pool for a swim. Rae’s tail is really gorgeous, but has a *lot* of drag. Mine is better for swimming, but is not as stunning. We’ve got plans to make new ones that suit our needs more.

The event had the theme of “Buccaneers, Belles, and Bootleggers”, all things for which Charleston has been famous (or infamous) and the Friday Night Social was a Speakeasy. I put on a 1920’s-style dress, after carefully pining the shoulders so they didn’t accidentally break away. Yeah, I originally made it for stage.

It was nice to see/meet all the members of our costume group. I spent most of the evening admiring outfits — there were vintage gowns and recreations and stunning outfits that nothing to do with the theme at all. I was please to see a lovely reproduction of of Cyd Charisse’s green costume from Singing in the Rain walking around as I had admired it on display in Toronto. The libations at the bar were uninteresting to say the least, but the refreshments included some southern specialties (pulled pork, crab dip, and peach cobbler).

I managed to stay awake for the Single Pattern Competition where the contestants get creative with a pre-selected pattern. I should have entered — all the patterns were from Folkwear, which I love, and none that I had made before. By the way, the dress I’m wearing for the social was made from one of their patterns. Hopefully I inspired someone, who had given up that pattern because of the weird cut of the skirt, to try again because of my successful results.

Saturday I was at loose ends for most of the day as all my roommates prepared for the SF&F Masquerade that night. I browsed the vendors (sadly, that didn’t take too long as there were only two), Miss Lizzie’s Traveling Fashion Show, the Guest of Honor’s display, the doll competition, and the quilt display.

It seemed a crime not to leave the hotel and see the actual city of Charleston (we were technically in North Charleston), so I called a cab and sped off toward adventure. Okay, really I had done a little research and found a restaurant with good reviews, serving local cuisine. I was deliberately early so I could walk around and see some of the city. Sadly, I wasn’t really near anything famous or historic, but I did see some nifty architecture. Doubly sadly, I had forgotten to change into flats and ended up with some epic blisters.

Dinner, however, at The Hominy Grill, was fabulous. I had she-crab soup (pictured), which if I’d known how good it was going to be, I probably would have had a bowl and made that dinner. Instead, I had a Nasty Biscuit — a biscuit (naturally) with a slab of fried chicken, cheddar, and sausage gravy. And there were boiled peanuts too, something I’ve always heard about but never tried. I was going to pass on dessert, although the buttermilk pie sounded intriguing, but the waitress sold me on their chocolate pudding. I’m so glad she did.

I was back at the hotel in plenty of time to dress and attend the Science Fiction and Fantasy Masquerade. (Photo by Leslie Johnston). And see my roommates win various awards.

Sunday was a busy day. We had to rehearse our presentation (and none of us were available at the same time), which we did by the elevators on our floor to (I hope) the amusement of the cleaning staff. We had a tech rehearsal on the stage. And we met with the judges to have our costumes examined minutely for their workmanship. This is really important for many historical costumes as there are often underlayers, structural garments, or interior finishes which one cannot see from stage. There was also frantic work to help one member of group actually finish sewing her costume before the pre-judging.

Eventually there was nothing left to do but get ready and here’s the result:
(Photo here and below by Ken Warren)
Our concept was what if the Victoria’s Secret fashion show was actually Victorian. Each of us chose a 19th century inspiration for our fantastical undergarments: Egyptomania, a Tiffany lamp, Van Gogh’s Starry Night, a Faberge egg, flowers, and Queen Victoria’s coronation. We also had one inspired directly by the modern fashion show — The Million Dollar Corset. Also, a showgirl who turned our title cards, and our celebrity host, John Philip Sousa. Note the wings and other absurd accessories on the models.

I made the chemise and drawers, corset, and mantle (as much as it might have been fun to have wings, we needed a few wingless costumes and I volunteered, knowing my luggage would be restricted by flying). The crown structure was made by Rae Bradbury-Enslin and rhinestoned by me. I’m really happy with how it all came out, especially the corset. It’s cream brocade, bound with white satin, and the pattern on the brocade is picked out in varying shades of gold rhinestones. It was a pain to bone, with lots of tiny boning channels to sew, but worth it. Expect to see parts of this costume incorporated in a new burlesque act.

Judging is done in three categories: documentation, workmanship, and presentation. I’m pleased to say that we won a recognition for the attractiveness of our documentation (that was all due to Rae’s hard work). Several members of the group received awards for workmanship, particularly Bill who won Best in Class in the Master Division for his flawless (that’s what the judges said!) recreation of John Phillip Sousa’s outfit. And in presentation…

And because it wasn’t like Rae had enough to do wrangling all of us and making the documentation beautiful, she also made T-shirts:

As much as I wanted to stay up and celebrate with the others, morning and my flight back to Boston was going to come way too early…

M2

Published in: on 8 June 2015 at 3:58 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! Before I bestow your Friday Tip upon you, I just want to remind you that I’ll be teaching a delightfully informative, yet entertaining, class on Corsetry at The Windy City Burlesque Festival on Saturday, June 13th.

And here is your tip!

To keep the prong settings of rhinestones from catching on everything, cover them with fine tulle.

The audience won’t notice the netting from stage. Heck, they probably won’t even notice it close up. You can just barely see the tulle in this photo taken mere inches away from one of my gowns:

You’ll get sparkle without snags!

M2

Published in: on 5 June 2015 at 12:17 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

I’m sorry for my lack of missives this week. I just wasn’t feeling like sitting at my writing desk. Fortunately I have this custom of Friday Tips and I wouldn’t want to deprive you. Soon I hope to get back to my reporting on The Expo — there’s only a little more to go.

And here is your tip!

Get a good pair of fabric scissors and use them to cut fabric only.

Your fabric scissors should be sacrosanct. Don’t use them to cut paper, sequins, buckram, plastic, metallic threads, &c. Anything but fabric will dull the blades. And do get them professionally sharpened from time to time.

I tie ribbons to the handles of my junky scissors so that in the clutter of my sharp-things drawer, I can easily find the ones to use on the forbidden materials.

M2

Published in: on 10 April 2015 at 2:27 pm  Leave a Comment  
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