Cover Girl

Dear Constant Reader,

While I was preparing for Costume-Con, I kept blathering to everyone about my documentation and then was euphoric when I won an award for it. So what is this documentation?

Basically, you need to tell the judges in writing all the important stuff about your costume. What time and place it’s from, what’s your source, what materials did you use, how did you do things differently from the inspiration and why, what’s particularly neat about it. Stuff like that, but everything has to be presented concisely. I think we were only allowed 5 pages of actual text, but unlimited pictures and captions. I took shameless advantage of the captions.

Sometimes people get creative with how the documentation is presented and since this was a big competition for me, I decided to go all out.

This is the first thing the judges saw:

Cavalcade of Burlesque was the industry magazine for a few years in the ’50’s. I scanned my favorite cover from my collection, picked a photo from the shoot I did with Vintage Girl Studios, and Scratch did his Photoshop magic.

I was pretty pleased with how the whole thing came out and apparently, so were the judges! I’m idly considering making the whole thing available somewhere.

And as long as we’re talking about sewing…
Current stats for the Dress Me contest:
1933 Evening Gown: 4
Butterick 4790: 1
Butterick 4919: 1
Butterick 6582 View A: 1
Butterick 5556 View A: 1/2
Butterick 5556 View B: 1/2

If you picked the Leading Lady Gown, please vote again. If you haven’t made your opinion known yet, you have until Monday!

M2

Published in: on 8 May 2014 at 11:33 am  Comments (1)  
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Out of the Running

Dear Constant Reader,

I know so many of you wanted me to make the Leading Lady Gown for my little Dress Me contest, but after really looking over the pattern (I didn’t actually have it in my hot little hands when I so blithely included it), it wants a lot of time, care, and potentially much cursing and stuffing it out of sight for a while while I sulk in frustration.

So, I’m taking it out of this contest. Never fear, I will make it at some point in the future, but when I’m good and ready.

So, if you voted for the Leading Lady Gown, please cast your vote again. The options are…

Butterick 4790

Butterick 4919

Butterick 5281

Butterick 5556

Butterick 5557

Butterick 5813

Butterick 5882

Butterick 6582

Craftsy Bombshell Dress
No picture because it’s a class

Sew Chic Tia Dress (also a Craftsy class)

Decade of Style 1933 Evening Gown

And the current standings are:
1933 Evening Gown: 3
Butterick 6582 View A: 1
Butterick 4790: 1
Butterick 4919: 1
Butterick 5556 View A: 1/2*
Butterick 5556 View B: 1/2

M2

Published in: on 7 May 2014 at 11:30 am  Comments (2)  
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So far…

Dear Constant Reader,

I got a lot of responses on the first day of my Dress Me contest.

So far the results are:
Leading Lady Gown: 6
1933 Evening Gown: 3
Butterick 6582 View A: 1
Butterick 4790: 1
Butterick 4919: 1
Butterick 5556 View A: 1/2*
Butterick 5556 View B: 1/2

I put up this poll before my 1930’s patterns actually arrived and, despite its commanding lead, I might pull the Leading Lady Gown out of the competition. Now that I’ve actually looked it over, it’s going to be a challenge and I want to take my time and a lot of care with it. It might not be the best option for this particular project, where I want to be giving you frequent updates.

Have an opinion on which dress I should make for myself next? Leave a comment on the original post.

In other news, tonight is Teaseday! Brigitte Bisoux is currently in the lead for ticket sales (shock!). If you want some say in who the Cookie Queen (or King) is, buy your tickets now!

M2
*If someone gave a second choice, it got a half vote.

Published in: on 6 May 2014 at 9:37 am  Leave a Comment  
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Dress Me Again

Dear Constant Reader,

Last year I ran a little contest where you, my Constant Reader, picked which dress I should make from my vast collection of unused patterns and I would blog about it.

The winner was Folkwear Fifties Fit & Flair. Unfortunately, it was not so successful… Live, learn, and make muslins first.

But I’m willing to try again!

For the next week, I’m going to let you pick what dress I should make next. Just leave a comment below and the dress with the most votes wins! I’ll make that one and keep you updated on my progress from fabric to wearable, hopefully with lots of pictures. Please specify which version of the pattern you like, if there’s more than one variation. Click the picture to go to the full description.

The candidates are :

Butterick 4790

Butterick 4919

Butterick 5281

Butterick 5556

Butterick 5557

Butterick 5813

Butterick 5882

Butterick 6582

Craftsy Bombshell Dress
No picture because it’s a class

Sew Chic Tia Dress (also a Craftsy class)

Decades of Style 1933 Evening Gown

Decades of Style 1930s Leading Lady Gown

So, you have until next Monday to leave a comment with your vote!

M2

Published in: on 5 May 2014 at 10:06 am  Comments (13)  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! Here’s your tip!

Basting before sewing many seem like a waste of time, but trust me, it isn’t.

M2

Published in: on 2 May 2014 at 11:03 am  Leave a Comment  
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Costume-Con 32

Dear Constant Reader,

So, what went on at this Costume-Con I keep speaking of?

This is going to be a long one…

On Friday, I flew to Toronto with my biggest suitcase crammed full of costumes. As soon as I had checked into my hotel, I ran right over to the convention hotel and checked in for my competition (before I even checked in for the convention itself). I gave them my documentation and music and picked times for my pre-judging appointment and tech rehearsal. Then I could actually relax and head back to get ready for the Friday Night Social.

The theme of this year’s convention was Myths, Monsters, and Legends, so it was a Monster Club Social. I wore The Diva’s Coat over a slinky black dress. Not exactly thematic, but at least it was appropriately Gothic.

SnacksThe refreshments were all appropriately themed with bloody beverages and amusing refreshments like popcorn seasoned with aged unicorn tears (cheddar). Adorable Lolita vampire maids were walking around enticing guests to play biting games with the prize of a badge ribbon (not that the maids were biting; you’d alternate sticking your hands in the mouth of a toothy toy and see who got bit). The centerpiece of the evening was the Single Pattern Contest. “Single Pattern” was appropriate, as almost all of the contestants chose the mermaid pattern. (Pix here.)

I couldn’t leaving without posing by the hotel’s grand staircase!
Friday night look
I’m totally lying. There was a photographer with a green screen and a variety of backgrounds on his computer. I’m delighted with how it came out.

Saturday day lookSaturday I went retro with a 1940’s styled dress (yes, I made it) and seamed stockings. Although I attended a workshop and a meet-up, my real focus of the day was the pre-judging. You get to show the judges your costume close-up (and off your body), answer questions, and point out the good stuff. My appointment time neared… and passed… and passed… Although each entry was allotted 15 minutes, the group before me had *eleven* entrants and I guess the judges wanted to see everything. Finally, it was my turn. Only an hour late.

After that I was more than happy to hang out with some friends and plot our costume presentation for next year in South Carolina until it was time for me to head out for Bosoms and Blossoms. By doing so I missed the Fantasy & Sci-Fi Masquerade (aka SF&F), which is the high point of most people’s weekend (Pix here). I heard there were 88 entries and the poor judges weren’t done until about the same time I got back from my gig in the wee hours. I can’t say I totally regret having other plans.

Sunday day lookSunday I slept in and skipped the Future Fashion Show. I wore the same costume I had performed in the night before* (with the corset this time), in a slightly different configuration, since I was definitely not stripping.

Although I had strolled the dealers’ room several times, I was restrained in my purchases. Partially because I didn’t have much Canadian money (at first) and partially because I had no room in my suitcase. I did buy a break-down wig stand, which was much better than the ice bucket I had been using in my room. And my eye kept getting caught by a 1931 dress clip at Ceilidh Creations. Finally I gave in because I was sure it would go nicely with some Deco shoe clips Betty had given me. What do you think?
dress and shoe clips

At last I had my tech rehearsal and then it was time to prepare for the Historical Masquerade. Fortunately, my friend Rae had a room in the convention hotel and let me get ready there. I know she was really nervous, but I was having a great time, dancing around to Weird Al (thanks Bill!).

That’s not to say I wan’t nervous about the competition. I had to show a burlesque costume to its best advantage in an interesting, yet family-friendly way, in under a minute. Also, this was my first time competing in the Master division in the Historical.
Mina at CC32Photo by Terri Meyer Boake

I think it went very well. At least the audience sounded like they liked it. While the judges were deliberating, the entrants went out on stage one by one for the audience to photograph. It felt like I was on stage forever — so many people wanted a shot, especially a rear view. : )

RibbonsI guess the judges thought it went well too. I was awarded Best Documentation in my category and division. I was grinning like a maniac when I went up on stage to get my ribbon. I *sweated* over that documentation. I also received the “Minsky Award” for my presentation (the judges have discretion to give out whatever additional honors they like).

And now I have just over a year to get ready for the next one!

I didn’t take a lot of pictures (and less and less as the weekend wore on), but you can see them here.

M2 *Best Presentation, Master division, Arisia 2008. Just mentioning…

Published in: on 1 May 2014 at 1:51 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Fit & Flair Progress (sort of)

Dear Constant Reader,

I bet you’ve been wondering what happened to my Fit & Flair dress! When last we left our heroine, she just had to tack down the neck facing and hem the skirt. Well, and then I had to take in the darts in the back even more because the bodice was bagging on me.

The hemming was a bit of a pain. Well, the hemming itself was perfectly fine, if tedious. It was making sure the full circle skirt was even all ’round. My Little Friend has a hem marker, but I’ll be damned if I can figure it out. I ended up using an unglamourous measuring tape, but it did come out nice and even.


Ta da!

Look, I even made a cute belt. True confession: it was supposed to have a buckle, but I forgot to add enough extra fabric, so it snaps instead. And I have a vintage brooch to add some interest like a faux buckle. And there was a plan (and material) for a pink crinoline.

But I’m not happy with the dress. In fact, I’m down right frustrated. It doesn’t fit well. The skirt is great but the bodice hangs badly off my shoulders. If you look at the picture, you can sort of see how the neckline is standing away from the mannequin’s body and you can see her camisole straps showing. It’s even worse on me.

Before you ask, no, I didn’t make a mock-up before I began. I’ve never had any problems with Folkwear patterns before. Butterick is another story…

I have no idea how to adjust the fit. It’s the sleeves that are the problem. They are cut in one piece with the bodice so there’s no armscye (or anything) to adjust. And I really don’t want to make adjustments to the center front as I did all that tricky pattern matching. I had Marion Hunt of Vixens Ahoy and Mimi Mischief, skilled seamstresses both, take a look at it and they were pretty baffled.

My only recourse may be to make a new bodice, from a different pattern, and mate it with the skirt. I suppose I could take off the bodice and add a waistband to the skirt and have it stand alone.

I’m very disappointed.

Grumpily yours,
M2

Published in: on 13 March 2014 at 10:20 am  Leave a Comment  
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New Costume

Dear Constant Reader,

I love costumes. One of my favorite things about burlesque is that I get to indulge in making fabulous costumes. By the way, today happens to be the birthday of two women who taught me a great deal about costuming. Happy birthday, Heather & Rae!

I also love burlesque history and have occasional bought costumes or accessories that have belonged to someone notable (to date that’s been current performers/costumers). But I won’t just pack them away to be admired — I wear them on stage. It wars with my museum training, but these costumes deserve to be seen as they were intended, on stage. But I treat them with the utmost of care and document any alterations I do.

Scratch had found these Hedy Jo Star costumes for sale on-line and when he saw that the owner lived in Massachusetts, asked if we could display them at The Expo. Maybe she’d get a buyer…

And she did:

The costume has six components:

bra

pantie

collar

gauntlets

skirt detail

fan (there are 2)

Despite being in great shape, it’s not completely ready to wear. There are a lot of small wear & tear repairs to be made. All of the elastic (especially on the bra) needs to be replaced. While the skirt fits perfectly around my waist, I can’t zip it over my thighs. It looks fine open in the front, but I’ll have to decide if I want to remove the metal zipper as a snagging hazard or leave it in place as part of the historical integrity. And it needs pasties and a g-string. Perhaps the pasties I bought at The Expo will work. We’ll see.

I won’t lie; this was the most expensive costume I’ve ever bought. So once my new act is ready, I’ll be looking for gigs!

The woman I bought it from can’t remember the name of the stripper she bought it from. The costume was made sometime in the 80’s and worn locally. I would love to find out the provenance, so please, if you have any leads, let me know!

M2

Published in: on 5 March 2014 at 11:29 am  Comments (5)  
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Expo 2014: The Costume Exhibit

Dear Constant Reader,

I love the Costume Exhibit at The Expo. For the past 6 years it’s been created by BettySioux Tailor and Baroness Blitzen von Schtupp and always amazes me. This year the theme was “In Love with Burlesque”, so there were hearts everywhere and the costume labels has answers to the questions “When did you fall in love with burlesque?” or “What do you love about burlesque?”.

My camera, of course, chose this time to have one of its hissy fits and not allow the flash to work. Some of the pictures are a tad blurred. Sorry about that. I really need a new camera.


From L to R: Madeline Sinclaire (I believe this is a vintage gown, but the rest was made by her), Angie Pontani, April March, Blaze (“Sparkling Diamonds” and “Pink Diamonds” — two Moulin Rouge reproductions)


After April March and Blaze, we have Femme Brûlée, Me (my “La Vie en Rose” costume), Scarlett Letter (“Love for Sale”, which she had worn in The Rhinestone Revue), and a boudoir robe by Catherine D’Lish (owned by me)


Hedy Jo Star (Cleopatra headress, Bob Mackie/Cher-inspired costume, and peacock costume — Scratch was able to get these on loan for the weekend, but the collection has since been split up), Pat Manzo (from the same source), BettySioux Tailor (“Friendly Conversation”, worn in The Rhinestone Revue). On the table is a scrapbook of Gypsy Rose Lee photos and clippings, compiled by one of her close friends and given to Willy Barrett.

You can see most of the individual costumes and a tiny bit more information here.

M2

Published in: on 27 February 2014 at 11:30 am  Leave a Comment  
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Friday Tip!

Dear Constant Reader,

Happy Friday! This week’s tip was inspired by recent personal experience.

Don’t bobble your buttons; make your removes a snap!

Cute, no?

I love a good button tease. Slowly slipping a little button out of its snug hole, gliding the fingers down to the next one, all the while eyes are on the audience… Lovely.

However, if those buttons are devilish, don’t fumble around. Replace them with snaps. Well, don’t *replace* the buttons, because they are a lovely detail and make your garment look finished. Hide the snaps under them. This will mean that your garment now opens the opposite way, so be aware of that.

And don’t forget my previous tip about positioning snaps!

I was rehearsing an act for the Halloween show at the Landsdowne Pub on Tuesday which involves a prim blouse with a ton of buttons down the front in sets of three. Here’s the catch: only the middle button of the three is a fastener. It was making me crazy trying to unfasten the correct button smoothly and without looking. Snaps it is!

But to make the blouse look right, I couldn’t just sew snaps under the buttons, because of those decorative buttons flanking each buttonhole. I had to remove the “real” button and sew it on top of the buttonhole between the other two and then sew on the snaps. I think it came out pretty well.

Here it is being modeled by My Little Friend. I don’t think it’s obvious that those buttons are now faux. Decide for yourself when you see it in action on Tuesday night.

M2

Published in: on 25 October 2013 at 10:25 am  Leave a Comment  
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